When I heard I was going to London for 3 days to work, I had my fishing arrangements and accommodations finalized for the chalkstreams before my flight and hotel were booked for the business leg of the trip. Honest. February is peak winter grayling fishing. I had never fished water hosting the Lady of the Stream.
I reached out via a post for info about winter grayling in the UK. Both Sash and Lewis Chessman were generous with their time and information. If I only had more time I would have enjoyed fishing in majestic Scotland where Lewis resides.
Background
Five years ago I met Charles Jardine, an artist, contributing writer, fishing celebrity, retired guide, and an English gentleman. We were introduced through a forum member and mutual friend, Bud Frasca, while sharing a house on the banks of the Yellowstone. Charles was presenting at an FFF enclave. Charles and I managed to fish together much of the weeks stay. I contacted Charles and we made plans to fish River Test together. I was appreciative he took time from his nonprofit "Fishing for Schools," his writing, and his three years backlog on commissioned paintings.
Six years ago, I contacted Krautcaster (Andy), who lives in Germany, regarding a post of his T&T Paradigm 8' 0" 5wt. I was actually trying to convince him to sell it to me. No luck. Three years later I finally found one. Over time we have communicated periodically about Paynes, Howells, and other mutual interests. I shared with him I was fishing in England with Charles Jardine on River Test for grayling. Sir Charles. River Test. Grayling. I had his attention. Andy made arrangements to meet up and fish for two of the three days. It turned out Andy and Charles had met previously in England at a Grayling Society event.
An English Lunch
On Tuesday, my second day of work in London, Sash and I were meeting for lunch. His office was not more than 100 yards from where I was working. We walked to a nearby pub, the Fox & Anchor, for an "English lunch" - two pints each. Ceremoniously, we drank Wandle – named after the only river in London holding trout.
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Hurstbourne Priors
Andy flew in on a Wednesday and the plan was for me to take a train from London to meet him and spend time in Hurstbourne Priors, a small village in Hampshire. It is best known because of the much-loved book - Harry Plunket Greene's "Where the Bright Waters Meet" - which describes in lyrical terms the author's love affair with the Bourne Rivulet, a tributary to River Test, and its surprisingly large brown trout. Plunket Greene was a famous Irish baritone living in London and spending the fishing seasons from 1902 to 1912 at his country home in Hurstbourne Priors.
Per Andy's recommendation, I ordered the book. In the first chapter, How I discovered the Bourne, Plunket Greene writes, " ...you cross a high viaduct...if you look out the window to the left-hand side you see two small streams, like little ribbons, running from under the viaduct down the valley and meeting at a bridge a few hundred yards below." He continues, "A schoolboy could jump across either of them...the water would not come up to your knees...yet half-way down the first of these on August 29, 1904, I got three (brown trout), weighing respectively 3 1/4, 1 3/4 and 1 1/2 lbs.
Andy shared this video ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szTH8FO8t2M ) of the viaduct Plunket Greene crossed riding in a steam train from London to Andover in the early 1900s. In the foreground, the very stream he describes and fished.
Anglers often stop at Plunket Greene's grave next to the river to pay their respects before fishing and perhaps tuck an Iron-blue dun (his favorite fly) on the cross that marks his grave, or in fly boxes left by previous visitors. Unfortunately, my work day ran long and I was not able to make it. I was disappointed but very pleased Andy was able to enjoy this place he has long wanted to visit. Photos Andy shared with me.
Howard's House Hotel in Salisbury, Hampshire
Howard's House was built in 1623. The house, carriage house, and stables are structurally unchanged except for the unavoidable - raising the height of doorways and breaking up large bedrooms to accommodate bathrooms when it was converted to a hotel and restaurant. At dinner, Andy shared there was only a single room available for one of the two nights for his stay. They placed him in the honeymoon suite for one night at the price of a single. He took photos of his four post bed and beautiful room and sent to his family. At breakfast the next morning Andy said, "I had a dream that during the night my wife cut off a large portion of my beard...maybe I should not have sent her photos of my suite." Ah, not stiff and humorless as South Park portrayed Germans.
From Howard's House, you see the steeple of a church. I asked how old this was. Our server answered, "not very old...maybe the early 18th century." When a church deemed "not very old" is older than the country you live in, time is relevant.
Day 1 - River Test
The famous Houghton Club in Stockbridge can date back its records to 1822 and every year thereafter at the banks of River Test. Appropriately located in Stockbridge is Robjent's Fine Country Pursuits. A wingshooting and fly fishing store owned by a tailor. Here you are outfitted with custom tailored wool and tweed hunting and fishing attire. Quite handsome, but not practical summer attire for the western waters I fish.
An English artist, a German intellectual, and an American beach bum turned cowpoke all together on the king of English chalkstreams – River Test. Andy fished a Norling 8' 7" 5wt, I a Payne 204L 8' 6" 4wt, and Charles, he has yet to convert. I caught my first ever Grayling with more to follow, predominantly on a Sawyer's Nymph (more to come about this nymph). Charles called the many 20 inches plus fish we caught of a different variety "spotted grayling." Trout season was closed. We experienced unseasonably warm weather with highs in the high 50s to low 60s - English summer weather. This brought hatches and rising fish periodically during the day allowing us, at times, to enjoy dry fly bliss.
Day 2 - River Avon
It was on these upper waters that Frank Sawyer developed his famous style of nymph fishing specifically for grayling. He was the first to tie up artificials with fine copper wire. This breakthrough gave way to the Sawyer's Pheasant Tail nymph. Charles recommended I fish with this nymph in a dry dropper setup on the first day. Andy fished a Reams 8' 3" 4wt. and I a Payne 200 4wt.
Andy and I wearing our tweed flat caps we purchased the first day at Robjent's in Stockbridge.
Day 3 - River Frome
It was on River Frome, a tributary to River Test, William and John Hardy had a fishing cottage. My last day with the presence of legends. Each of the rivers has a keeper and a hut. I found this one quite charming. The Frome is known for fewer, but larger grayling. I was fishing with Pete Buckey who had recently qualified for the English team. The first larger grayling I hooked took off downstream in a fast current and began spiraling using its tail to try and free the hook. It was successful in doing so. Pete told me when grayling do this to lower the rod tip into the water. When the line is parallel with the water surface and bottom of the stream they will not fight and you can just reel them in. At least until they see you and the net. He was right. Pete wanted a photo of the 3 lb. grayling for Aardvark McLeod's website and newsletter. It was uncooperative but beautiful. I fished an early T&T Paradigm with a late '40s Perfect.
A friend (who's a forum member) introduced me to Charles Jardine and I met Andy through the forum. Charles and Andy met at a grayling society event.
All serendipitous.
The fishing, English countryside, and history of the water were marvelous. The opportunity to spend time with these two friends, priceless.
Photography was a combined effort.
FYI
Charles Jardine connected me with his son, Alex, who started and runs the chalkstream side of Aardvark McLeod destination fishing. Alex made all arrangements for me in advance and was a pleasure to work with.
Howard's House (now Teffont House Hotel, https://www.teffonthouse.com) single and double rooms run from 88 -120 pounds ($112 - $160) per night. The restaurant is excellent+. Howard's House is convenient for England's premier wingshooting - pheasants were seen in the garden on two of the mornings.
