how do fiberglass rods cast as compared to bamboo?

[lloyd3]

Since fiberglass rods have been around since the cane embargo of what...1954, they are now pushing 70-years old. While they're not as artistically wrought as most bamboo rods, they are indeed now "classic" by all the usual definitions and..... I have heard that some cast fairly passably. I am trying to find one (or, perhaps some) that will cast in the medium range of speed and have that charming bamboo trait of allowing one to "feel" the rod load. I know that there are other forums for these types of rods but my only frame of reference is the bamboo rods I have come to prefer and I suspect the vast experience represented here will have some insight that is found nowhere else. I do have some nostalgic motivations here (having recently buried the fellow who taught me to fish) because he primarily fished fiberglass (for mostly financial reasons, of course). I also have some reels from the 1950s that would actually look good on a glass rod. Any suggestions as to where I might begin my search?

[bulldog1935]

here's the place to start
http://fiberglassflyrodders.com/forum/v ... 68#p285968

If you want to look at the question a little more empirically than "feely", you look at it by equivalent modulus, length and rod taper.
You can optimize the power to weight by choice of material, and optimize power and control split by taper.

E-glass has the lowest modulus of any material ever used for a rod. It makes exceptional progressive and super-progressive tapers in shorter lengths. It will make a mid-weight 6' progressive taper - something that can't be done even with cane. And still great progressive tapers out to 8'.
Progressive tapers give very good control, while still having a fast-enough mid for power. (Rod butts are mostly for fighting fish, and with e-glass rods, you still have a lot of feel from the line and the fish into the handle.)

S-glass and cane have the same equivalent modulus. They make great progressive tapers in longer rods, around 8', and very good parabolic tapers in shorter rods. Para tapers can give up more than a bit of control but make up for it with a lot of power.
I fish an 8'6" inshore 6/7 S-glass parabolic taper rod that will do virtually anything my Sage RPLX7 graphite will do. The S-glass is less-tiring to fish, because it transmits less of the shock from shooting long line into your arm. It also has a lot more control than the RPLX.
When the wind gets too big to question whether you should be fishing at all, the RPLX will still shoot line into the teeth of a 20-knot wind.

Graphite is the material for 9' rods, because you can make any taper work with it in this length rod.
They talk about taper differently, but mid-flex rods are usually progressive, and TCR/RPLX are parabolic graphite.

Fisher made a bunch of combo rods before they closed house. I've owned several and will never part with my Sterling 5/6 combo.
It's a 4-pc rod with two handles. All four pieces makes an 8'10" 5-wt progressive taper.
The extra handle with the tip and mid makes a 3-pc. 6'9" parabolic 6-wt.
Interesting, both rod configurations will shoot about the same length of line, telling how important the mid of a rod is for doing that job.

If you want to try one of those super-progressive dry fly rods, look for vintage Heddon trout (T) tapers.
If you want a fantastic mid-length, mid-line-weight progressive rod, look for a Phillipson.
7' Fenwicks are also very nice rods, FF75, FF705.
If you want a para pocket rocket, look for a 6'3" Berkley Gowdy Para/metric.
If you want a rod that will cast 4 line weights and behave as a different rod with every one of them, look for a Vince Cummings Water Witch or River Rat.
If you want a rod you can't go wrong choosing, Scientific Anglers System (Fisher glass).
(When we filmed an episode of KT Diaries on endemic Guadalupe bass, Kevin Townsend fished my System 5).

Two exceptionally nice Phillipsons are both 8'ers, and unfortunately rare - DFS (dry fly special) and E80 Expert
Most 8' Phillipsons are 7-wts, and these are true 5- and 6-wts, respectively.

it ain't just the mylar


Two rods that define Why Fiberglass are Phillipson MF66 and MF70. Progressive 5/6-wts that can't be duplicated in cane.



The modern equivalent of a PHY line cannon is my S-glass rolled-from-scratch-on-order (from Japan) Izch PBEX8667 inshore rod.
I have shot line and stared in awe at the rod wondering when the shooting line was ever going to stop.



and no reason to apologize for fiberglass (fairly passably my ass) - there are niches where it is the Superior material.
Before graphite became the marketing buzzword, the advantages of glass were being optimized by talented rod designers.

If you want a new S-glass jewel that casts like cane, check out Steffen Brothers (get on their wait list).

[offshore31]

Great write up Ron. I've got a couple of those fisher blank rods. Very nice rods to fish! The only thing I can add to that is my fiberglass Morgan 8' #4 Winston stalker reproduction is like an old wet fly bamboo rod, nice and slow.

[bulldog1935]

thanks for contributing
You could still order both Sage and Winston glass from your local fly shop well into the 1990s.
The blanks for the original San Francisco rods were made by Fisher.
Can't cover it all - Wojnicki, Claudio, so I concentrated on hands-on.

The Japanese get it, and Japan is a great source for glass.


Quiet Loop VF805 S-glass



ps - a 6' Phillipson will roll-cast with aplomb - try that with any one else's 6' rod.

[offshore31]

I'm waiting for delivery of a NOS fisher Winston #6. The nice about glass is it's less $$$ than bamboo. But I love the history and feel of bamboo.

What reel is that on the Airrite? Beautiful.

[bulldog1935]

...
What reel is that on the Airrite? Beautiful.

Thanks, out of production, a hobbyist reel from Hermit Fly Shop in Tokyo, one of 27 made.
I call it my Japanese tomato.