Flax/linen fly lines

[rogerfielden]

My particular form of insanity leads me to old rods (cane and greenheart) and old fashioned styles of lines which I endeavour to make myself. So far I have had some success with furled heads from polyester (sinking) and silk. Method of manufacture is braiding (like braided leaders) or strands of thread laboriously threaded down hollow Dacron. All dressed in boiled linseed.

I understand that linen was also used and seems to have been less prone to rot than silk.

I am looking for any information on the use of flax/linen in fly lines in particular, rot resistance, strength, method of manufacture, method of treating/dressing, floatation characteristics i.e. natural sink or float and indeed anything that will give me insight.

This is the very beginning of my search for info so any and all inputs will be gratefully received

Thanks (in anticipation! )

[BrownBear]

I'm unacquainted with linen in fly lines, but I've used linen thread for years in leather work. Long filaments and zero stretch make it an attractive prospect. But it would need protection from abrasion, which weakens it quickly. In leather work we use beeswax, but I'm guessing something more on the order of BLO (boiled linseed oil) or lacquer would be required on fly lines.

[rogerfielden]

Thanks BrownBear. I had planned to use BLO as a varnish as you suggest. It has two properties that I like. The first is of course the protection it offers but the second is that it is lighter than water. As such and as with silk, if the absorption rate is high it reduces the overall density of the line and aids flotation. Thanks again... cheers

Roger

I'm unacquainted with linen in fly lines, but I've used linen thread for years in leather work. Long filaments and zero stretch make it an attractive prospect. But it would need protection from abrasion, which weakens it quickly. In leather work we use beeswax, but I'm guessing something more on the order of BLO (boiled linseed oil) or lacquer would be required on fly lines.

[BrownBear]

I'm speculating based upon years of using BLO on traditional muzzleloader stocks. But drying time is critical, especially with multiple coats. If you do more than one coat (on muzzleloaders at least), you have to get the previous coat really, really dry before adding another. If it's not dry enough, drying time for the second is vastly extended. I'm guessing the same for linen fly lines.

[klingon]

BLO (boiled linseed oil) can take a while to dry even though it contains dryers. I use a mixture 1/3 x1/3 x1/3 (volume volume) BLO x TruOil x Turpentine. Drys overnight. I rub it down with 0000 steel wool. Recoat 7 times. Finish rub with rottenstone/olive oil. Used this process only on old stripped braided silk lines

[rogerfielden]

Thanks Klingon. Sounds a good idea. I have waited several days between coats of BLO, so this is most helpful!

BLO (boiled linseed oil) can take a while to dry even though it contains dryers. I use a mixture 1/3 x1/3 x1/3 (volume volume) BLO x TruOil x Turpentine. Drys overnight. I rub it down with 0000 steel wool. Recoat 7 times. Finish rub with rottenstone/olive oil. Used this process only on old stripped braided silk lines

[Simon.]

Barbour Threads in Lisburn, Northern Ireland used to make linen fly lines. I have seen several in undressed condition but never fished one. I don't know if the company would be any help but it might be worth an email. Here's the website in case you would like to drop them a line.
http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/produ ... ours-linen

Simon.

[rogerfielden]

Thanks Simon. I will follow up...cheers Roger

Barbour Threads in Lisburn, Northern Ireland used to make linen fly lines. I have seen several in undressed condition but never fished one. I don't know if the company would be any help but it might be worth an email. Here's the website in case you would like to drop them a line.
http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/produ ... ours-linen

Simon.