Maxima Accuracy

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billems
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Maxima Accuracy

#1

Post by billems »

I tie my own leaders, mostly to the George Harvey formula. Despite the knowledge that Maxima is nearly always thicker than indicated on its label, I willingly ignored it, not wanting to get that technical. But last I week, I bought a Mike Rite leader gauge from Mr. Selb (I could not locate any new onces for sale), and reconfigured my Maxima. The soft nylon from Rio proved accurate. But I tied a new leader using the accurate sizings and I'm pleased with the results. Both George Harvey and Joe Humphrey's used the old Dupont stiff mono, then later switched to Masons, which had more-or-less accurately stated diameters. Thank you Mike-Rite!

rsagebrush
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Re: Maxima Accuracy

#2

Post by rsagebrush »

I love my Maxima for tying leaders! Many others I'm sure feel the same. Great stuff and tough as heck, it is also easy to Mike if one so desires.

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creakycane
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Re: Maxima Accuracy

#3

Post by creakycane »

Since I started using the thread Uni leaders, I just cary Maxima Chameleon spools in 2lb, 3lb and 4lb and add as needed for most of my trouting. I can't say that I miss tying knotted leaders with Mason/Maxima/Nylorfi etc. I notice that the dark color of the chameleon makes it fairly easy to see when trying to get through the hook eye. If you are over 55, you might know what I mean.

Eddie Southgate
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Re: Maxima Accuracy

#4

Post by Eddie Southgate »

I like it but like yourself I always measure it with the calipers or a micrometer . I have carried a 1/2" Brown & Sharpe mic in my watch pocket or overall bib pocket since my pap gave it to me when I started in the 6th grade 57 years ago . :pipe
Wore out old rod junkie , WILL WORK FOR RODS .

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GerardH
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Re: Maxima Accuracy

#5

Post by GerardH »

I use variations of the older George Harvey formulas employing Maxima Chameleon, but I don't worry about the +/- of actual tippet thickness -- in my opinion, it's irrelevant so long as everything is proportional as I taper down the leader.

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Caneghost
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Re: Maxima Accuracy

#6

Post by Caneghost »

I was a devout maker and user of Harvey's leaders during my spring creek days in the Cumberland Valley. I found they were not the best choice for the much larger, windier, open rivers of the Catskills, etc. and have tended toward 12' knotless leaders (Rio, mostly) one size heavier than my needed tippet size, adding about four feet of tippet. They key to making Harvey's leaders work is the casting stroke: stopping the rod high and not lowering it until the end of the line and leader butt turns over. That casting stroke became intrinsic to my casting decades ago and makes my current leader system work too.
During my Harvey years though, I used Mason Hard Mono in the correct sizes. I experimented with Maxima and never liked the results. George and Joe were both adamant that the hard type mono performed better for the butt sections than any softer materials, and my own fishing led me to agree.

If you find something that works for you and allows you to throw controlled slack, then I would say pay no heed to anyone else's opinions, as changing your system now might require a change in casting technique which is never easy for most anglers.
...a wink of gold like the glint of sunlight on polished cane...

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carlz
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Re: Maxima Accuracy

#7

Post by carlz »

I end up tying Harvey style leaders. I'm not religious about the lengths, but use my fingertip to elbow as the length of the sections. For warm water I use Berkley Trilene Solar (flourecent green) for all but the tip section. For trout, Maximia Chamelion for the but sections and ultra-green for the two sections closer to the tip. But again, If I have something else at hand, I use it.

I do find that if I end up with a leader that is a bit too long, I end up cutting a section out and blood knotting it back together on the water.

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DrLogik
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Re: Maxima Accuracy

#8

Post by DrLogik »

I've been a real advocate of Maxima Chameleon for butt sections and very soft mono for mid and tippet sections, especially with long leaders. It's been my experience that the softness of the leader needs to match the line.

I check this by tying the leader directly to the line with a nail knot and bend the line into a loop. If the loop maintains its curve without a hitch, then the leader and line match. If the line is curved and then straightens out at the leader, the leader is too stiff, and vice-versa.

I have found in on-stream conditions, for me, if the leader is stiffer than the line, the transfer of energy is lost at the line/leader junction, be it loop-to-loop or nail knot, and especially noticeable when roll casting. If the leader is softer than the line, same situation except not as bad.

I run 444 on most of my reels and use Chameleon for butt and Froghair or Orvis for mid and tippet. I also use a 70/30 formula not the traditional 60/40.

I find that for me, that formula turns over better, especially in windy conditions or with very long leaders (12' to 16') that I tie up for a tailrace fishery that I fish. I have special leaders for that river, a 16 foot 70/30 formula with Chameleon butt and Froghair or Orvis mid and tippet is my go-to.

Your mileage may vary.

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