Varnish or?

[Jim Curlee]

Was thinkin about finishing out a bamboo blank.

I make longbows, I "shoot" a 2 part epoxy finish on my bows.
I know it wouldn't be traditional but it sure is a bulletproof finish. I know my bows flex a lot, so am not worried about the elasticity of the finish.

Just wondered if any of you guy's are using 2 part epoxy finish's, and what your experience has been?

Thanks
Jim

[RWHoffhines]

Why not try it? might wait for a later project to experiment on tho. Sounds like this is an early effort?
What product do you use for this? It could also be a great reel seat insert finish. Reply here or if you prefer, PM me.

Rob

[BigTJ]

The only reasons I can think of are a) does it go on heavy - if so, could slow down the rod action and b) is it hard to get off, in case you ever want to refinish the rod.

If the answer to both questions are acceptable then go for it.

[Jim Curlee]

I'm using Thunderbird bow finish. It's a 2 part epoxy.
A friend is shooting 2 part epoxy model paints. These clear coat "paints", are made for remote controlled "toys". They are extremely durable, finishes. I'll be using this stuff on the next batch of bows. It's called Klass Kote.

Sprayin a finish, will go on way lighter than dipping varnish.
I have refinished several bows, that I've sprayed with the t-bird finish.
I usually just give the bow a once over with 320, and respray.
Guess I'll just have to give it a go.
Jim

[bluesjay]

Hi Guys, Since it is 'what you do', do it.....

Jay Edwards

[Tim Anderson]

Just because a finish hasn't been used before (or we don't know that it has) is no reason not to try it, particularly if you know it works great in other applications. Please let us know how it turns out!

Tim

[DelBoy]

I'm using Thunderbird bow finish. It's a 2 part epoxy.
A friend is shooting 2 part epoxy model paints. These clear coat "paints", are made for remote controlled "toys". They are extremely durable, finishes. I'll be using this stuff on the next batch of bows. It's called Klass Kote.

Sprayin a finish, will go on way lighter than dipping varnish.
I have refinished several bows, that I've sprayed with the t-bird finish.
I usually just give the bow a once over with 320, and respray.
Guess I'll just have to give it a go.
Jim

Jim,

How did the epoxy finish turn out?

Thanks!

Del

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[toothybugs]

My concern with epoxy as a finish is that it will dull and haze relatively quickly because they, as a chemistry, just do not withstand weathering very well. But if the rod isn't outside in the sun very often it might well be just fine.

[Jim Curlee]

I have a couple of bows that I built in 2015 that could use a respray.
I use my bows, they are not “safe queens”, I think 5 years is pretty good longevity for a wood finish.
Another finish I use in my arrow building is called Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane, I like the gloss finish.
When I break an arrow what’s left gets a flight test, I have found these arrows a year later, the feathers will have all but disintegrated, but the quill will still be glued to the shaft, and if you give the shaft a little rub, you’ll find it shines like the day you flight tested it.
Another testament here is for Duco cement, to be out in the elements and still holding the quill to the shaft is pretty good for a glue.
Another thing when you are buying wood finish’s always buy the gloss, it will be the toughest finish.
To make Satin they add “filler” to dull the finish, this also weakens the finish.
Jim

[Akdan76]

Welcome Jim. I thought i recognized your name. Fellow longbow guy myself.

I have wondered myself about the Massie finish on rods. I have used it on arrows with great success. Or possibly profin.

[Perry Palin]

I use Devcon 2-Ton 2 part epoxy on wood rods. I am not a cane rod builder, but I have used this epoxy on some cane remodel projects. Devcon 2-Ton is a clear glue, about the strongest glue you can get.

I put one coat of epoxy on a rod blank, wrap the guides, then apply a second coat. The epoxy sets up pretty fast, so I have to work with small amounts. I apply light coats of the epoxy with my fingers in natrile gloves. Working in a warm room will help keep the coat light and thin.

The finish is glossy, clear, and bulletproof. I have never had to recoat any of my rods, and some are over 20 years old. Admittedly they don't get outside every week; I have too many of them for that.

On a wood rod the finish stiffens the blank a bit. I don't know if it's the same for bamboo, but I assume so.

[thegubster]

Hi Jim,

Since you're "relatively" new around the forum you may or may not have heard about Tim Anderson's "Gorilla Glue" finish..??

Tim posted in this topic just above (post #6) and if you send him a message he'll be more than happy to share his posted steps to how he manages this. It's pretty simple IIRC and he's had really good luck with it. Thin, pliable, strong and will stand up a good while.

Just thought I'd offer up another suggestion as it seems you're getting ready to dig in here! You're really handy and I know you won't have any trouble with his process.

Good luck. Good to see you digging into this game a bit.

Jeremy.