Applying wax to a rod

[Mister Bill]

This has been discussed before, but this is a new day.

I have a freshly varnished (glossy Helmsman) rod out of the tank about a week ago.

I have been reading about waxing.

First, Butchers is the recommended but $40 + is steep and I don't own a bowling alley. What are other choices?

With my recently varnished rod, should I wait a while, or can it be applied now?

Do I apply wax directly to the glossy varnish, or should I try to remove some of the gloss first and then polish with the wax?

Thanks for the input.

[canerodscom]

Depending on what was used to finish the rod, I would wait another 2-6 weeks. I use Renaissance (sp?) wax on this sort of project. I like glossy rods so would not recommend buffing it with any sort of product intended to dull the shine.

[Bruce Van Deuson]

A week??? I would wait a month or more before doing anything extra to the finish. Varnish isn't really "cured" until it no longer smells like the solvent used in it. When I bought a new truck back in the day, the advice was don't wax for six months.

Bruce

[galt]

I always ask myself,'what is my intended purpose for this step' before engaging in any operation.

An application of wax will enhance the existing gloss level of the surface to which it is applied. If you do not like the gloss level of the varnish. you should adjust it with compound or steel wool before waxing. Make sure it is hard enough before abrading. Many are just a mixture of solvent and hard plant waxes such as carnuba. Some are synthetic. Simonize wax intended for auto finishes is inexpensive and readily available. It makes a great shine. Soft waxes such as bee and paraffin will produce less gloss but collect more surface contaminants.

You can apply a traditional solvent/wax any time after the finish is hard enough to not be damaged by the application process itself. If you can easily imprint the finish with a fingernail, it is probably too soon. Excess solvent could be an impediment if the concentration is sufficient to keep the wax from solidifying. If applied too soon, just buff again later. Most of the solvent in a traditional varnish has to evaporate before the film can cure properly anyway. Sorry, I can't speak to synthetic waxes and remember that waxes are sacrificial and must be re-applied periodically.

As an aside, you can achieve a nice satin sheen by rubbing a finish with 0000 steel wool. You will think you made a mistake when you first start, but keep going, it will 'light-up' and have a nice hand rubbed appearance after more rubbing. The finish film must be thick enough to accommodate this procedure; and if your vertices are sharp, you will cut the finish right off.



Galt

[bluesjay]

Hi Guys, I use 'Minwax', but not usually on the varnish on new rods. I do use it on grips on new rods.

Jay Edwards

[Skimpole]

I use Johnson Paste Wax. Easy to apply and buff and inexpensive. Available at the big home improvement stores.

[Mister Bill]

Skimpole,

Thanks, I already have an open can on the shelf in my workshop.

I did not look forward to spend $45 for Butchers.

[henkverhaar]

A week??? I would wait a month or more before doing anything extra to the finish. Varnish isn't really "cured" until it no longer smells like the solvent used in it.

I'm not sure I agree with that - if applied correctly, the solvent will be gone LONG BEFORE the actual varnish has fully cured ;-)

[wb4tjh]

Birchwood Casey gun stock wax works very well, as does Minwax or Johnson's paste wax for wood. I wax all my rods, be they varnished or impregnated bamboo, graphite or glass. Rub a couple coats into the cork grips too. It will add years to the life of the cork. it makes it tacky even when wet.