My invisible wrap isn't

[LenR]

I've used U-40 PermaGloss to good affect EXCEPT with stripper guides where I struggle with bubbles under the guide foot tunnel. Possibly not enough solids so bubble forms while drying. Spar and normal 2 part wrap finishes worked well over this. Kimono Mikimoto #374, YLI #212 & Hitena #801 Natural are natural undyed whites without UV brighteners. YLI "Natural" #239{light yellow similar to cane} supposedly great too on cane but I haven't tried yet.

Multiple articles out there I've perused while fighting this that were helpful:
http://www.bamboorodmaking.com/Tips-fil ... Wraps.html
https://www.rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,172267
https://searcysowbug.blogspot.com/2009/ ... wraps.html
http://www.splittingcane.com/uploads/Cl ... _Wraps.pdf
https://www.miabelladesigns.me/library/ ... aybeal.pdf
http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.p ... topic=7286 Great article by Chris Carlin using guide wrap epoxy from over a decade ago. Read it twice. A few changes since he first wrote this. If you don't use the epoxy the remaining points I've found are still valid.
Make sure to wash hands as body oils screw you up. Don't ask me how I know that!
Wrap with light tension and burnish lightly.
Use alcohol not acetone. Mix epoxy, let rest 5 minutes then add alcohol & final mix.
Use a syringe or similar to suck out air bubbles from guide feet not a straw & your mouth. Fine diabetic needles too!
This over Indian Ink was also no problem allowing nice signatures under wraps.
FlexCoat or ThreadMaster Lite etc work well over Spar or polyurethane {per Harry Boyd}. TML Worked for me too.
Let the rod rest horizontally with the guides facing down overnight to keep finish from flowing out of guide
tunnels.
Wipe off any excess using your gloved finger tip.

[woody osborne]

late for a comment but thanks for posting this. the one phrase
"FlexCoat or ThreadMaster Lite etc work well over Spar or polyurethane {per Harry Boyd}" set some wheels in motion for me!

[Teborods]

Acetone vs DNA for clear wraps?