Wright McGill guide wraps - correct thread/finish
Moderator: Titelines
Re: Wright McGill guide wraps - correct thread/finish
#21OK I'm back. I see your point. Any repair should be easy to see. No mistaking it. Does that mean I can not replace a reel seat with an exact NOS reel seat? I have a pile of hardware from rescued rods I use to repair with. Should I not use them? If I replace a reel seat (with an exact match) should it be stamped "replacement".
I just don't see the justification to not try to match the original as close as possible.
Now I'm done.
Vern
I just don't see the justification to not try to match the original as close as possible.
Now I'm done.
Vern
Re: Wright McGill guide wraps - correct thread/finish
#22Thanks for proving my point again. If you use a NOS reel seat on a 75 year old rod it will be plain to see it’s a replacement. That is the perfect analogy for my previous posts. Replacement wraps IMO should be “NOS” wraps, so to speak.
On the other hand if you were to artificially distress the NOS reel seat by abrading and tarnishing it to make it look original that would be deceptive and analogous to making a new wrap look yellowed and aged with shellac.
If you replace and old reel seat that is broken with another old reel seat that is correct but not broken that isn’t deceptive either. You are repairing the rod and it is still an original condition seat. Unless the cork is sanded down the join won’t be perfect and you can probably lay tell it’s a replacement.
Same exact argument goes for ferrules - the ferrule wrap being the key to show the ferrule was reset and not original condition.
I could go on about cork and varnish but those discussions should be evident by now.
I thank you for the opportunity from these examples - it really helped capture what I’m trying to communicate.
John
On the other hand if you were to artificially distress the NOS reel seat by abrading and tarnishing it to make it look original that would be deceptive and analogous to making a new wrap look yellowed and aged with shellac.
If you replace and old reel seat that is broken with another old reel seat that is correct but not broken that isn’t deceptive either. You are repairing the rod and it is still an original condition seat. Unless the cork is sanded down the join won’t be perfect and you can probably lay tell it’s a replacement.
Same exact argument goes for ferrules - the ferrule wrap being the key to show the ferrule was reset and not original condition.
I could go on about cork and varnish but those discussions should be evident by now.
I thank you for the opportunity from these examples - it really helped capture what I’m trying to communicate.
John
Re: Wright McGill guide wraps - correct thread/finish
#23I'm still not sure what you are trying to communicate except not matching wraps is ok.
Vern
Vern
Re: Wright McGill guide wraps - correct thread/finish
#24Just to add to the car analogy - certain cars parts are stamped with identifying numbers which make it easy to tell an extensive restore- “all numbers matching”
Re: Wright McGill guide wraps - correct thread/finish
#25Well this thread had gone completely off the rails. Let leave that we agree to disagree.
Vern
Vern
Re: Wright McGill guide wraps - correct thread/finish
#26Hi Guys, Leave a 'Tell' on repair/restorations.
Jay Edwards
Jay Edwards
Re: Wright McGill guide wraps - correct thread/finish
#27I agree with all of the above in general. When I do a rewrap or repair on any vintage rod, it's hard if not just impossible to duplicate the original to match "exactly". Most of these older threads are in very short supply and/or no longer available. To duplicate the thread color, CP, aged look or otherwise, makes it just as hard to match the original. Sometimes the mixing of varnishes, lacquers and shellac flakes will work with some trial and error. I prefer to do a complete strip of all the rod sections so "all" the wraps will match. I call it reconditioning and not restoration and I mark them as such.
Zia Rods Brochure
www.ziarods.com
www.ziarods.com
Re: Wright McGill guide wraps - correct thread/finish
#29Kermit - have seen the work you are doing and hold it in high regard. Keep it up - thanks.kermit wrote: ↑04/15/21 13:55I agree with all of the above in general. When I do a rewrap or repair on any vintage rod, it's hard if not just impossible to duplicate the original to match "exactly". Most of these older threads are in very short supply and/or no longer available. To duplicate the thread color, CP, aged look or otherwise, makes it just as hard to match the original. Sometimes the mixing of varnishes, lacquers and shellac flakes will work with some trial and error. I prefer to do a complete strip of all the rod sections so "all" the wraps will match. I call it reconditioning and not restoration and I mark them as such.
FWIW a lot of times the old yellow wraps are dried out and should all be replaced anyway so another re-do isn’t needed in 5 or 10 years.
John
- oldschoolcane
- Bamboo Fanatic
- Posts: 1604
- Joined: 04/26/06 18:00
- Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Re: Wright McGill guide wraps - correct thread/finish
#30I am really not sure why there are so many concerns about matching the original wraps when possible? I asked this question and started this topic with hopes of learning something new and doing this work better because of this - not trying to fake a buyer into paying more for a rod. This is my rod and I'll do my best at matching the thread and finish, I don't see any reason not to pursue this by doing what I feel is right. You all do the same.