Reel Seat fit
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Reel Seat fit
#1Reel seat is not a snug fit at all. Books are recommending to build up the rod with masking tape or string. Any other options than that?
- avyoung
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Re: Reel Seat fit
#3Keep in mind that you don't completely cover the section to be glued with masking tape. You only build it up at the top and bottom of what is to be inside of the seat. The glue then cures on the rod between the tape.
tony
tony
- bugslinger
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Re: Reel Seat fit
#4Actually the epoxy glues to the masking tape since you have to build it up from the blank. I usually put three 3/4” wide masking tape spacers on reelseats. I’ve done this for over 30 years of rod building, no fails yet.....
- avyoung
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Re: Reel Seat fit
#5If you do it this way the blank itself is epoxied to the reel seat. The masking tape only ensures the blank is centred and the epoxy is kept
in place until it sets.
tony
in place until it sets.
tony
Last edited by avyoung on 04/14/21 07:35, edited 1 time in total.
- henkverhaar
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Re: Reel Seat fit
#7I do as Bugslinger does, making four or five narrow tape bands to hold the seat snug and true. I smear lots of epoxy so that it fills or at least bridges the gaps between the tape rings. Ultimately, it's only a reel seat and not subject to much in the way of torque.
Re: Reel Seat fit
#8As was said earlier, the tape provides a channel to build up the glue so it contacts with cane
Re: Reel Seat fit
#9There are a number of options like wood or plastic bushings turned to fit or paper wrapped and held with super glue. They are more work and no more secure than tape.
I normally drill the insert to fit. I turn down reel seat insert “blanks” so I can see how they will look to about 60 thou oversized. When I build the rod mic out the blank and then drill it out 10 thou oversized, turn to final dimensions and finish. If for some reason I don’t do this, I’ve found two 3/4” bands of tape are plenty one at the front the other near the butt end. The one next to the grip I leave a 1/8” gap go glue doesn’t squeeze out on the grip. Don’t go crazy on the glue a little is plenty the reel seat comes of easier that way if ever required and it really doesn’t take much to hold the seat in place.
John
I normally drill the insert to fit. I turn down reel seat insert “blanks” so I can see how they will look to about 60 thou oversized. When I build the rod mic out the blank and then drill it out 10 thou oversized, turn to final dimensions and finish. If for some reason I don’t do this, I’ve found two 3/4” bands of tape are plenty one at the front the other near the butt end. The one next to the grip I leave a 1/8” gap go glue doesn’t squeeze out on the grip. Don’t go crazy on the glue a little is plenty the reel seat comes of easier that way if ever required and it really doesn’t take much to hold the seat in place.
John
Re: Reel Seat fit
#10As always, thanks for the input. Getting closer to a finished product. I guess the next biggie is the DYI Dip Tank, stay tuned...
- henkverhaar
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Re: Reel Seat fit
#11If you are 'unhappy' about that dip tank thing, there is a multitude of alternative finish methods. You could look at the turkey baster method if you want to stay with varnish. Or the gorilla glue friction finish for an almost instant, 'zero thickness' finish. Or consider vacuum impregnation with a wood stabilizing resin. To name just a few...
Re: Reel Seat fit
#12I started with a drain tube that I hated. Moved to the turkey baster method but used an infant medicine dropper. I have since switched to the gorilla glue finish and will likely stick with thathenkverhaar wrote: ↑04/15/21 01:00If you are 'unhappy' about that dip tank thing, there is a multitude of alternative finish methods. You could look at the turkey baster method if you want to stay with varnish. Or the gorilla glue friction finish for an almost instant, 'zero thickness' finish. Or consider vacuum impregnation with a wood stabilizing resin. To name just a few...
Re: Reel Seat fit
#13I’ve been using gaffer’s tape for grips and reel seats lately, but have used masking tape in the past - the surface of gaffers tape is rougher than masking, and it sticks really well (but, neither of those two properties are all that necessary, I just had some laying around, and both work well). Also, you can buy foam spacers from people like H&H, but most that I have found have a large outer diameter.
Re: Reel Seat fit
#14I just took into the shop a custom made rod with a loose reel seat. The owner is pretty sure the builder used masking tape to build out the blank to mount the seat. The owner wants me to try to get some glue under the seat to repair. I don't recommend this but we agree that if it doesn't work then we will cut off the lower grip, pull the seat and then build up the blank with arbors turned to size to fit the seat.
Over the past 50 years I have repaired close to 30 loose reel seats, many because the rod maker used masking tape to mount the reel seat. Failure mode is usually one of two, adhesive failure or the tape give up due to age and moisture getting under the seat. Occasionally the cardboard tube used as a filler under the seat will give up because of moisture.
I don't use masking tape to mount seats. I build up using either pre made arbors or craft sticks glued to the blank then turned to size in the lathe. The pre made arbors are used on the plastic rods and the craft sticks on the bamboo rods. The reel seat fillers I make in the shop are made to fit the blank directly.
Over the past 50 years I have repaired close to 30 loose reel seats, many because the rod maker used masking tape to mount the reel seat. Failure mode is usually one of two, adhesive failure or the tape give up due to age and moisture getting under the seat. Occasionally the cardboard tube used as a filler under the seat will give up because of moisture.
I don't use masking tape to mount seats. I build up using either pre made arbors or craft sticks glued to the blank then turned to size in the lathe. The pre made arbors are used on the plastic rods and the craft sticks on the bamboo rods. The reel seat fillers I make in the shop are made to fit the blank directly.
Re: Reel Seat fit
#15On the FWIW side, I use Jeff Wagner's mandrels to turn the spacers. I then carefully sand the rod butt blank on the lathe until it is round, then also (carefully) drill out the spacer until it fits the butt. The only time I have used tape was on a graphite rod and it failed after about 10 years. I will say however that there was a lot of tape and I had not left spaces for the spacer to be directly bonded to the blank.
Don Titterington
Desert Canyon Rods
West Linn, OR
Repairs/Renovations
Custom Builds
Desert Canyon Rods
West Linn, OR
Repairs/Renovations
Custom Builds
Re: Reel Seat fit
#16I have had tape failure with aluminum seats with large ID that required quite a bit of tape. I would use an arbor for those. The reel seats I make for my rods require that I turn down the rod butt to fit. It results in a super solid bond. In fact, I have never been able to remove one without destroying the spacer.
Re: Reel Seat fit
#17Hi Guys, Tape glue? I have found thread under two Hardy ferrules that I thought were unrepaired.
Jay Edwards
Jay Edwards
- henkverhaar
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