Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
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Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
#1I’ve attached a couple of photos of a section of my planing form. I’ve only completed a couple of rods I’ve had difficulty in maintaining an equilateral triangle being as much as .010 off on one side. I’ve studied the references and have a good handle on corrective measures.
So, I examined my forms and I found a ledge or ridge on the side of the bevel. The machining on this bevel appears to be ridged on both the tip and butt side. The photos show one side of the smooth bevel and the other photo directly across the ridged bevel. The ridged bevel clearly shows the light reflected by the ridge.
Am I correct in my assessment of this apparent flaw?
So, I examined my forms and I found a ledge or ridge on the side of the bevel. The machining on this bevel appears to be ridged on both the tip and butt side. The photos show one side of the smooth bevel and the other photo directly across the ridged bevel. The ridged bevel clearly shows the light reflected by the ridge.
Am I correct in my assessment of this apparent flaw?
- Mike McGuire
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Re: Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
#2You might find this article "Checking and Truing a Planing Form" on my web site helpful. It describes how to measure the angle of a planing over its length form using cylindrical rods of different diameters and how to correct it using a file glued to a 60 degree block.
Mike
Mike
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Re: Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
#3If the ridge is at the same depth as the adjoining opposite bevel, I don't think eliminating the ridge helps, as the bevels will not be the same depth when you close the forms
Re: Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
#4I haven’t measured the ridge depth as of yet. It does appear to be shallower than the smooth bevel side.jim royston wrote:If the ridge is at the same depth as the adjoining opposite bevel, I don't think eliminating the ridge helps, as the bevels will not be the same depth when you close the forms
I am left wondering if Mike’s file and block setup would help or not. I thought I would setup a triangular file and block as the standard practice of hand filing dictates. I hesitate because it may also skew the smooth side during the process.
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Re: Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
#5If you close them up tight, you'll know for sure.
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Re: Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
#6I would try dropping the tip of a 60 deg. center gage (like a Starrett C391 or similar) into the form completely closed. Of course you’ll have to first clean out all shavings on both sides of the form. This would give you a good chance to visualize any significant departures from 60 degrees (above and below the ridge) and see where the two edges meet.
Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
#7I closed them and definitely the ridge is above the bottom of the smooth bevel. Tomorrow my plan is to epoxy a triangular file to a hardwood block. Then open the butt end of the form until the bottom of the block just touches the top of the form. I’ll then open each station + .005” from that beginning measurement consecutively until the final tip station. I’ll then run the file lightly down the form until the ridge is gone. Probably will mark the bevel first with a sharpie so I can see the progress.jim royston wrote:If you close them up tight, you'll know for sure.
I don’t see any problems at the ends of the form. The ridge is concentrated about 20-30 inches from the butt end.
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Re: Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
#8I would try to get the ridge out without contacting the other form. The steel is not hard,
I would separate the forms and carefully take the ridge off. Use high power reading glasses or something that magnifies your vision.
I would separate the forms and carefully take the ridge off. Use high power reading glasses or something that magnifies your vision.
Re: Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
#9I am not seeing the ridge. Is it on the left bottom edge, second pic?
Re: Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
#10Yes. If you enlarge the photo it’s easily seen.LeeO wrote:I am not seeing the ridge. Is it on the left bottom edge, second pic?
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Re: Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
#11I’ll give it a shot just working the bad side. Thanksjim royston wrote:I would try to get the ridge out without contacting the other form. The steel is not hard,
I would separate the forms and carefully take the ridge off. Use high power reading glasses or something that magnifies your vision.
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Re: Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
#12Well, I have certainly learned a lot on what can go wrong with the craft.
The good news is that after lightly filing the burr area in the form all seems to be well. At least the sections were within.001-.002 when I test planed some bamboo. I was careful after painting the area with a sharpie to file very little and quit after lightly kissing the bevel as indicated by slight removal of the sharpie ink.
Someday maybe I’ll have a chance to make a rod…
Thanks everyone for your help in getting this sorted.
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The good news is that after lightly filing the burr area in the form all seems to be well. At least the sections were within.001-.002 when I test planed some bamboo. I was careful after painting the area with a sharpie to file very little and quit after lightly kissing the bevel as indicated by slight removal of the sharpie ink.
Someday maybe I’ll have a chance to make a rod…
Thanks everyone for your help in getting this sorted.
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Re: Planing form flaw? What’s your take on this
#13Shortly after posting the last comment , I tried a longer length of cane. I had similar problems reoccur. Due to the fact that I am inexperienced, I assumed that my planing technique was at fault.
I went out on a limb and purchased another set of forms from a different vendor. Using those forms, I am within .001-.002 of the taper spec. consistently. Also, my corrective planing technique works. I am no longer befuddled by the results.
I post this not to toot my own horn nor to disparage any particular vendor. I post to merely point out that sometimes one may trust their own judgement and understanding. I bought the first set of forms pre-Covid and did not start up again until a few months ago.
Anyone starting out from scratch as I did would do well to get some early in-person help when having difficulties. YMMV.
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I went out on a limb and purchased another set of forms from a different vendor. Using those forms, I am within .001-.002 of the taper spec. consistently. Also, my corrective planing technique works. I am no longer befuddled by the results.
I post this not to toot my own horn nor to disparage any particular vendor. I post to merely point out that sometimes one may trust their own judgement and understanding. I bought the first set of forms pre-Covid and did not start up again until a few months ago.
Anyone starting out from scratch as I did would do well to get some early in-person help when having difficulties. YMMV.
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