Collet chuck for lathe

[In the film]

I currently use a 3 jaw chuck on the lathe for trimming ferrule stations and fitting ferrules and was hoping for some feedback on using a collet chuck system as an alternative. ER 32, for example, with 6 fastening segments.

I mount ferrules on a smooth metal bit for fitting, so I’m pretty sure collets would work. I’m less certain about how well they would work for securing bamboo (for trimming the ferrule stations). For now, I make only hex rods.

I’ve always been paranoid about working so closely to the protruding rotating jaws and don’t see any safer and economical alternatives in 3 jaw (perhaps a 4 jaw but I’m not sure that’s best for securing a hex rod?). I’d likely be ok with the investment in the chuck and various sized collets if it works.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Bill

[bluesjay]

Hi Guys, I use a 5C collet closer on my Atlas 10". However, I also use a Jacob's headstock chuck that is very useful, and doesn't have the protruding jaws of a three jaw. I also used a Jacob's on my Atlas 6". which I sold to a forum member. The Jacob's isn't as accurate as an adjustable collet closer, but pretty darn accurate.

Jay Edwards

[JMQ4]

Bill-

I have a collet chuck plus ER32 collets, but on a wood lathe. For round things, like a steel mandrel for holding cork while shaping grips or fitting ferrules, they work great, especially so if the mandrel can be held or supported by the tailstock as well. I have a 'live' drill chuck that fits in the tailstock that can hold up to 1/2 inch - it isn't necessary, and a dead center would work too, but helpful when steel rod extends a bit away from the collet chuck to prevent things from getting oval. I've held hex rod sections in the collets too, but have always used a layer of masking tape to prevent any scarring - have yet to try without the tape, but haven't seen any ill effects yet, and there isn't any real need to tighten the collets very much. I don't have a metal lathe, so cannot comment on that.

Joe

[G-ManBart]

What model lathe and what mounting system does it use for the chuck? For many lathes you can get a collet adapter that fits in the spindle, so no need for a collet chuck. You do need a closer to go with the adapter, but it's generally not an expensive setup. Then there are speed collet chucks which mount like a normal chuck....faster, simpler, but more expensive. Hardinge/Sjogren collet chucks are still available new, but pricey. Jacobs made a flex collet system that was really nice as well.

[Godfroy]

I have four different sets of collets for my metal lathe, including ER collets. I use them all the time for making ferrules and reel seats. I would not dream of using collets for holding bamboo rod sections, for that I have a small three jaw chuck (smaller than the maximum chuck the lathe can take).

To cut ferrule stations I have a rotating cutter mounted on the lathe toolpost and just pull the chuck around by hand, so there is no rapidly spinning lathe chuck or flapping of unsupported rod section.



Collets are excellent for holding cylinders. Rod sections are not only hexagonal but tapered. The other problem with ER collets, compared with a 3-jaw chuck, is that it is difficult to get a feel for how hard they are squeezing the material as the initial resistance in closure is used in squeezing the collet to touch the workpiece. It is only after the slack is taken up that further force squeezes the collet on to the workpiece.

[Anders Johannesson]

I would strongly renommebd you to go for ER collet system. Ferrules or Bamboo.

For cylindrical they can be purchased in at least 2 different classes regarding run out. Metric or inch systems.

For six strip Bamboo you can use ER collets made for hexagon blanks. (Not the same collet as for round bar…)

You can also purchase hexagon er collets in plastic for six strip. They are also available in plastic for fire strip.

The plastic ones that I have in mind are made in the us by a rod maker. Currently I am not in the shop but if I remember correct his name is Leo Gomolschak. Grey rods or something close to that mabye a reservation for spelling

[Anders Johannesson]

Grey hackle rods is the name of the company for plastic ones.

[Anders Johannesson]

Maritool.com for hexagonal ER collets of steel. Then you will need som tape on the Bamboo.

[Anders Johannesson]

ER collets can have even better performance if the standard nut is replaced by a nut with a ball bearing at a reasonable price!

[3creeks]

For ferrule stations I use the 3 jaw chuck for the blank and ferrule station cutters from Art Le Clair. They are excellent. I have a 6" Atlas metal lathe and I do have an ER32 collet chuck with collets, but I haven't fitted ferrules with it.

[GrayHackleRods]

I've got ER32 collets that are printed, they are softer than a steel collet and you don't need to wrap the blank with tape. Since they are printed there is more latitude in how the collet fits. I've used these to cut ferrule stations and round down the butt of large rods without ever seeing any detriment to a blank. You might want to check these out.https://store.grayhacklerods.net/produc ... hex-collet

[3creeks]

Wow Lee, those are cool! Where have I been? Leave it to you to come up with those.

Jeff

[In the film]

Thank you all so much for the helpful feedback! I should have specified that I only have a bench top wood lathe. It’s a cheapie by Harbor Freight, but it serves its purpose just fine for now. The headstock is MT 2 and the spindle is 1,8.

I see at least one company that sells a threaded ER32 collet chuck that would fit, and I guess would allow a bit more clearance for pass-through stock compared to a MT chuck?

Anders and Lee, thank you for pointing out the hex collets. Those look like they could be just the ticket for hex bamboo. Lee, perhaps you could kindly provide a bit more information like clamping range for a single collet, approximate tolerances (runout), and how best to clamp without applying too much pressure to the bamboo? Feel free to PM me if that would be a better way to proceed-though other might be interested as well.

Bill

[GrayHackleRods]

Wow Lee, those are cool! Where have I been? Leave it to you to come up with those.

Jeff

Working on a set for quads and heptas now!

[JMQ4]

PSI woodworking sells a 1x8 collet holder, that’s what I use. Beall also makes something similar.

[Anders Johannesson]

Perhaps it can a be a thing to consider, a 3 jaw chuck is not a precise one. It’s also heavy. As our blanks have small dimensions the speed i.e high rews are preferred. A collet system is prefered.

Put a blank in a 3 jaw, measure the position of flats with an indicator and release and repeat. Normally your measurements Will deviate.

For my tailstock I have exchanged the drill chuck und uses an ER collet with morse taper

I also have a special holder for my center drills with a mirse taper direkt to the tailstock. The overhang is much shorter which gives higher precision.

[Middleton]

This is a little off topic, but I've started "chucking" the rod end up short and using a center drill to create the divot for a live center. This way I can chuck up the rod with its end a bit further from a three jaw and by using a live center support the longer rod section. Keeps my fingers away from the chuck and the rod running pretty true.

[Titelines]

This is a little off topic, but I've started "chucking" the rod end up short and using a center drill to create the divot for a live center. This way I can chuck up the rod with its end a bit further from a three jaw and by using a live center support the longer rod section. Keeps my fingers away from the chuck and the rod running pretty true.

Be careful cinching up the tailstock doing that. It's easy to cause a delam or split by putting too much pressure on the center into the rod end. Don't ask how I know...

Mark

[GrayHackleRods]

This is a little off topic, but I've started "chucking" the rod end up short and using a center drill to create the divot for a live center. This way I can chuck up the rod with its end a bit further from a three jaw and by using a live center support the longer rod section. Keeps my fingers away from the chuck and the rod running pretty true.

Be careful cinching up the tailstock doing that. It's easy to cause a delam or split by putting too much pressure on the center into the rod end. Don't ask how I know...

Mark

I split out a few butts when I first started then went to wrapping the butt with wire which worked okay. Sherline came out with a reverse live center which works great. It’s an MT 0 mount but the shaft could be turned down to fit a chuck.

[Anders Johannesson]

There are also adapters available Jacobs to morse. As well as morse to smaller morse. Can be an alternative to turning the shaft.