Finish
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- steeliefool
- Bamboo Fanatic
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- canerodscom
- Bamboo Fanatic
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Re: Finish
#2If you are going to wipe on the finish, I would recommend finishing the rod shaft before applying the wraps and finishing them. You might try thinning Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane about 25% with good mineral spirits or naphtha as a finish. Then you can use whatever CP and wrap finish you choose.
Hope this helps,
Harry
Hope this helps,
Harry
Re: Finish
#3For wiping on you really can't beat the ease of use with Tru-Oil. It dries really fast and you can do multiple coats in a day. If you like the look of varnish, but don't want to mess with it due to space concerns (lack of a dip tube, etc.) I can't emphasize how easy it is to pour or baste varnish on a rod and get superb results. Maybe you've tried that and didn't like it, though.
- fisherman911
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Re: Finish
#4I like " Old Masters" wipe on "Tung Oil Varnish". The item number on the can I'm currently using is 50508. I've also used thinned Minmax Helmsman Spar Urethane with good results.
- steeliefool
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Re: Finish
#5Thanks.
Is wipe poly urethane considered sacrilege ? Did a hex bait caster, 3 "wipes" with a light 0000 wool between and it came out nice.
Also, smell could be an issue with neighbors et als.
Is wipe poly urethane considered sacrilege ? Did a hex bait caster, 3 "wipes" with a light 0000 wool between and it came out nice.
Also, smell could be an issue with neighbors et als.
- henkverhaar
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Re: Finish
#6Or consider the infamous Gorilla Glue finish? Needs to be applied to a bare blank though...
Re: Finish
#7+1 for Gorilla Glue finish; great way to get an even result without dust specs, and seals the rod. I tried it on a few rods last winter and they still look good after use this season. If they do get any wear or marks, can just apply a few more coats too. To henkverhaar, you noted over a bare blank for use, but I've applied it to rods I've given a few coats of Tru-oil to as well and finish seems to hold up just the same - granted, I only have one season trial so far. I like the Tru-oil as it gives a nice look to the rod.
David
David
Re: Finish
#8Gorilla Glue. I switched to GG after using an infant medicine dropper ala turkey baster method. I will probably never go back to varnish. You can get Gorilla Glue at most grocery stores
- fragmentum
- Master Guide
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Re: Finish
#9+1 for the Tru-Oil finish in 12 or more coats. 1000-1200 light sanding after every 3rd coat. Never use steel wool on your rod, EVER. You don't want the fibers embedded in your finish or having it cut into the apexes of the blank. Keep those edges sharp! Wrap and finish your guides after with whatever you like on them.
- GrayHackleRods
- Master Guide
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Re: Finish
#10Gorilla glue, 6+ coats, never needs sanding and it’s harder than any varnish or oil you could apply. Tim Anderson put together a great tutorial about the application. I impregnate all my blanks any apply over that with no problem.
Regards,
Lee
http://www.grayhacklerods.net
lee@grayhacklerods.net
Monument, CO
There is no greater fan of fly fishing than the worm.
Patrick F. McManus
Lee
http://www.grayhacklerods.net
lee@grayhacklerods.net
Monument, CO
There is no greater fan of fly fishing than the worm.
Patrick F. McManus
- bugslinger
- Bamboo Fanatic
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Re: Finish
#11Another vote for Tru Oil! I use seven coats of paper towel wipes, then a couple coats of Birchwood Casey’s gun stock wax. A satin finish instead of a shiny plastic look.
Re: Finish
#12Hi Guys, Try this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Minwax-Indoo ... lsrc=aw.ds
Edit: I have used this on 'clunker rods.' It covers and looks OK and protects to the extent that it does. I'm a firm believer in dipping in a high quality varnish.
Jay Edwards
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Minwax-Indoo ... lsrc=aw.ds
Edit: I have used this on 'clunker rods.' It covers and looks OK and protects to the extent that it does. I'm a firm believer in dipping in a high quality varnish.
Jay Edwards
Last edited by bluesjay on 10/14/21 14:14, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Finish
#13I'm with Harry (aka canerodscom). Using Helmsman as wipe-on is a great way to go (I thin with Mineral Spirits) and can be polished easily. I've only tried using GG once and I didn't like how it worked. It was easier to do it with the Helmsman. If you use the Helmsman, get yourself stoploss bags to store it in. Makes a great wrap finish as well.
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- Guide
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Re: Finish
#15Rustins Danish Oil is a Tung Oil based finish which I prefer to neat Tung oil. There are other makes of Danish Oil but not all Danish Oils are the same. I know from experience that Rustins Danish oil works well. https://www.rustins.ltd/images/files/11 ... eaflet.pdf
Re: Finish
#16Tru Oil rubbed in until it just starts to feel dry, followed by buffing vigorously after it dries with a cotton t shirt, repeated to the thickness of finish you want, is very simple and looks good. I would do this before wrapping. I have also done this with various varnishes thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits and like them slightly better, but in your quest for minimal product and ease of use that little $9 bottle of Tru Oil is optimal.
Tru Oil tips:
Put a pinhole in the foil top rather than removing it.
Put a piece of tape over that after use and store upside down. I got these tips from somewhere else and the product seems to have lasted a good while. I occasionaly get little varnish chips on rods finished with various varnishes including Tru Oil and wipe on Tru Oil to touch them up.
I detest CP so I cant help with that. I would choose a thread color where you can factor in the darkening and use the same finish you used on the blank. Use a toothpick to apply. It will take a good number of coats.
Tru Oil tips:
Put a pinhole in the foil top rather than removing it.
Put a piece of tape over that after use and store upside down. I got these tips from somewhere else and the product seems to have lasted a good while. I occasionaly get little varnish chips on rods finished with various varnishes including Tru Oil and wipe on Tru Oil to touch them up.
I detest CP so I cant help with that. I would choose a thread color where you can factor in the darkening and use the same finish you used on the blank. Use a toothpick to apply. It will take a good number of coats.
Re: Finish
#17GG is the only way to go, I apply it to a new or stripped blank, I only use two or maybe three coats cause I dont sand it off you can control how much is on the rod. My wraps are done with varnish and after all is done you can hand rub some varnish over the whole thing which does help in blending all together, varnish or Tru oil, both are good and both can be finger rubbed on.