Halstead Mystery Rod

[Nodeless]

I own a copy of The American Sportsman Treasury (1971), a beautiful compilation of articles previously published by American Sportsman. (It really is a treasury and if you can get your hands on a copy you won't be sorry.) In it, there is an article by the late great Leonard M. Wright, Jr., called The Ultimate Fly Rod, almost a dirge for the art of cane rodmaking, a truly wonderful and nostalgic piece. Wright ends it with, "The trade cannot possibly survive; the rods, and the tradition, do." Thankfully, things did not turn out entirely that way. What I'm interested in is a rod he mentions several pages earlier and I'll just give the quote, all I have to go on: "The finest, steeliest dry-fly rod I ever owned--or ever handled for that matter--was an eight-foot Halstead." That's it. Of course, I'm wanting to get my meats on those numbers, but Halstead tapers seem notoriously difficult to come by. I'm guessing this rod would come in at a 4 or 5wt in modern lines. Does anyone know what rod this might be or be willing to hazard a guess? Thanks in advance.

bb

[RWHoffhines]

I don't have that taper, but I just picked up that very book at an antiques mall 2 weeks ago!

Hey, wait...somewhere I have a set of numbers for an 8' 5wt 3pc 16/10 or 11 Halstead I measured over varnish about 12 years ago.

That statement makes me wonder about the heat tempering on that particular rod.

Rob

[Gosland]

Rob, maybe "steeliest" refers to a flaming or high heat treat approach imparting the "steelie" feel he references? Hmmm..... Do you remember that rod having a unique feel to it relative to other similar lengths/line weights/actions?

Gregg

[RWHoffhines]

The rod was a classic blonde with with gold silks tipped red and green at the handle an ferrules, I think it had Super Zs, but I thought Halstead made ferrules so memory might be playing tricks.
The action was a very pleasant all-day kind of rod, like an exceptional Leonard 50, or maybe an Edwards, or Payne 200. Steely doesn't come to mind, more like confidant and well proportioned.

[Nodeless]

Gregg: I'd think "steeliest" is a reference to quickness and resilience. That would be my reading.

Rob: Do you know if you still have those taper numbers? Also, in the book I return often to reread Wright's article on bamboo makers and also the excellent essay by Roderick Haig-Brown, "In Search of Trout." No one wrote on fishing quite like RHB, in my opinion. And, on page 185, what do you think of that motorized cutter jig (top photograph)? Never seen one close to that and was wondering how the operator makes a straight pass through. I can't seem to make out how the side guide would work.

[bluesjay]

Hi Guys, Nodeless, I see what you mean about that 'set up.' I don't get it. You'd certainly want an excellent pair of gloves. Ya gotta love the 'guard.' Jay Edwards

[RWHoffhines]

I'll dig up those numbers. When I first paged thru the book I thought I had found a detailed picture of the legendary and secreted Leonard beveller(!), but it looks like it's just a strip cutting saw.
But gotterdammerung tone of the article is interesting to read. I'm sure seeing Jim Payne, Gillum and Garrison all pass away within about what, a dozen years was sobering. Did I read that right that FE Thomas was still going? I understand it folded in the 50s, I should re-read, or was he referring to Sam Carlson carrying on?

[headwaters]

Yes, Steve Campbell carries on the F.E. Thomas Rod Company.

See thomasrodco.com

[hopkintoncane]

If the taper is anything like the Gillum 8 footer, its a cannon, I had the pleasure of working with Rob Smith's (Pentalux) example a couple of years ago, I heard somewhere that the Gillum was supposed to be a 6, but I have to say, it took an 8 like nobody's business, nice taper.

[RWHoffhines]

Oh yeah, the numbers! I subtracted .007 thou for varnish. The repair laid bare a segment of bamboo where I could determine the thickness. You can alter that at your discretion. I have not made a rod from these numbers.
0 .066
5 .085
10 .096
15 .110
20 .126
25 .132
30 .151
35 .167
40 .180
45 .195
50 .216
55 .232
60 .239
65 .266
70 .273
75 .283
80 .293
85 (at wrap end) .333
I don't see ferrule sizes or guide spacings in my notes.

Rob

[ShenRods]

That rod is the Halstead 8' 2pc 5wt.

The Garrison 212e is a soft wimpy rod compared to it. The Gillum 8' is a 6wt and a brute. The only other close rod is the Dickerson 8014 but the Halstead is a bit steelier in the tip and has less deflection. Rob's taper is of a much softer tip 3pc rod.

One big issue is that all Halstead Rods are they were built on 3" stations for the taper and not 5" - same thing goes with Gillum's. Remember Halstead built Gillum's mill - which is now in the CFFC&M alongside the Halstead Beveler. Again, since everything was done on 3" stations, any conversion to 5" loses some of the "character" of the original taper.

Lastly, Halstead ferrules are unique in both dimensions and construction that also adds to the uniqueness of this rod. Simply sticking store bought ferrules on is not an option worth pursuing if you think it would yield the same rod. It would be like taking a favorite rod and sticking a bunch of extra weight at the ferrule station and expecting to cast the same.

I am not at liberty to give that taper out. You will need to find an original, but that is what you are looking for.

Chris

[64Emmons]

Gregg: I'd think "steeliest" is a reference to quickness and resilience. That would be my reading.

Rob: Do you know if you still have those taper numbers? Also, in the book I return often to reread Wright's article on bamboo makers and also the excellent essay by Roderick Haig-Brown, "In Search of Trout." No one wrote on fishing quite like RHB, in my opinion. And, on page 185, what do you think of that motorized cutter jig (top photograph)? Never seen one close to that and was wondering how the operator makes a straight pass through. I can't seem to make out how the side guide would work.

Are you talking about the saw that cuts strips out of the culm? I have not seen the photograph for years but if that is the machine you are talking about it has an auto feed that pulls the culm through and the slitting saw cuts the wall but leaves the dams intact. My grandfather had essentially the same machine. The weight of the motor itself presses the culm into the blade and the rubber roller pulls the culm through. Ideally, when done, you slam the culm on the floor and the strips break apart as the dams shatter.
Fifteen or twenty years ago I lent that volume to rod maker and never got it back.

[k7zbob]

Here is the cutter:

[64Emmons]

That is the same machine. The rubber coated roller under the culm presses the culm up into the cutters because it is counterbalanced by the weight of a motor turning the roller. See the belt at the end. Picture a motor at the end of a seesaw.