Chicken Marengo challenge

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cheffy
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Chicken Marengo challenge

#1

Post by cheffy »

Since there have been rumblings of no new stuff here I’m going to put this out there.
The challenge amongst all the instructors at school is to make chicken Marengo.
Play along if you want.
Make whatever variation you want. Classic or modern.
As a reference look at Escoffier #1564
Post your pics.
You have until June 14 which is the battle of Marengo.

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Gnome
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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#2

Post by Gnome »

Cheffy,

thanks for the challenge, Dad really enjoyed it tonight

G

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cheffy
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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#3

Post by cheffy »

Pics?
I just received some pics from my entry level culinary students. So far I’m impressed.
I love to see what yours looks like.

snorider
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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#4

Post by snorider »

Awesome idea cheffy! I'm in; having been bachelorized by my wife and kids heading off on vacation. I am the lucky stooge that gets to go to work. But I now have a clean organized kitchen again and this sounds like a fun challenge!
Michael
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it. T.R.

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Gnome
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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#5

Post by Gnome »

Thanks Cheffy, last night was the trial run and Dad tore into it like a starved Dog!!! Not a single bit of leftovers!
I did a semi-historical version and included shrimp but the next batch will have some fresh Colorado Crayfish to go with it so as to be closer to the original.

snorider
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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#6

Post by snorider »

Apocryphal origin story aside I will not be using any of our mud dwelling bugs! The Nobel Crayfish is vastly different than the american version. NOT a fan of american crawdads. And yes I have eaten them fresh from the Bayou in a crawfish boil and still would rather eat a shrimp any day. Given the location of Morengo in the north of Italy the crayfish would have been large and from the clear water streams of the area. The Nobel Crayfish; which I can tell you is a much more toothsome critter.
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So I did the research; this dish, and the story to go with it, was likely made up by a french chef in the early 1800's in recognition of the victory. The first published recipe from 1890 has no egg, no crayfish, no mushrooms, and no tomatoes. The chef to whom this dish is attributed was not even in Italy when the battle occurred he was in Russia and did not join NB until the following year. It is well documented that on the evening after this victory Napoleon relieved his own Marshal F.E. Kellerman of his dinner prepared by local monks by seizing it!

The basis of this recipe is similar to french provincial braised chicken dishes, which are among the best ways ever devised to cook a bird. And btw were a favorite breakfast dish of Napoleon. This is my favorite grouse and pheasant technique and was shared by a close friend a long while back. The earliest published recipe for chicken Marengo:
Pellegrino Artusi ca 1890: Take a young chicken, remove the neck and legs, and cut into large pieces at the joints. Sauté in 30 grams (about 1 ounce) of butter and one tablespoon of olive oil, seasoning with salt, pepper, and a dash of nutmeg. When the pieces have browned on both sides, skim the fat and add a level tablespoon of flour and a deciliter (about 7 fluid ounces) of wine. Add broth and cover, cooking over low heat until done. Before removing from the fire, garnish with a pinch of chopped parsley; arrange on a serving dish and squeeze half a lemon over it. The result is an appetizing dish
So the years have been kind to Chicken Morengo and the Italians, as they are want to do, have added tomatoes, and the garnish of crayfish(might have been original), and mushrooms, and even a fried egg on top. All of which sounds excellent. I am planning to take a little license of my own!
Cheers
Michael
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it. T.R.

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cheffy
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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#7

Post by cheffy »

Yes the story of the dish is highly suspect.Especially the fact that the chef that it’s attributed to wasn’t even working for Napoleon at the time.
Part of the challenge to to make the dish your own. Don’t like crawfish? Use shrimp or lobster. Don’t want eggs? Ok leave them off. Just have fun.
Last edited by cheffy on 05/31/20 21:53, edited 1 time in total.

eastprong
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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#8

Post by eastprong »

In its current incarnation, the recipe is dangerously close to cacciatore, sans the shellfish. Given the murky lineage, the question might be: what would kind of a braised chicken dish would a French chef make given the ingredients of the region? The region is around Genoa. So that’s where I’m heading...

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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#9

Post by snorider »

Cheffy,
Thanks again for getting us started on this!

Eastprong, it is very close indeed to cacciatore, in fact in some of the recipes I find it is virtually identical. It is also a very close cousin of chicken provencal. Napoleon was famously picky about his food and went thru something like a dozen chefs due to his sensitive stomach. His diet was very simple, and so the original recipe for a dish he would have likely eaten was probably very similar to Artusi's. Bread was used extensively for soaking up sauces, fruits and veggies were consumed in very limited quantities. One notable exception was raw almonds which he apparently ate with gusto. Some really cool reading out there about the emperor and his peculiar diet.

I like the regional focus! Can't wait to see how people interpret this dish.
Michael
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it. T.R.

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cheffy
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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#10

Post by cheffy »

Just to mess with everyones thought process on this but.... there was the suggestion of cooking this outside on an open fire to give it that “battlefield” flavor.
Now you all are really thinking about this aren’t you?
You’re welcome

eastprong
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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#11

Post by eastprong »

Here's my entry. I used boneless skinless chicken thighs. I followed the usual Marengo/cacciatore structure but with cognac and shallots, and lots of fresh tarragon at the end. The shrimp were coated with smoked paprika before sauteing and the side is porcini risotto.

--Rich

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Last edited by eastprong on 06/13/20 16:32, edited 2 times in total.

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cheffy
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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#12

Post by cheffy »

We set the time machine to 1894 and evoked the spirit of Charles Ranhofer,chef to Napoleon III.
Basic Marengo with onion, mushrooms and herbs de Provence.
For sides we did
.
Croustade Carolina, rice, mushroom and a shrimp and crayfish salpicon.
Haricot vert with grilled olives
Caramelized pearl onion
Toast point “soldiers”
And a garlic scape,lemon and Cured and smoked egg yolk gremolata.
Fluted mushrooms

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https://i.postimg.cc/9XYMGG6n/25082-B64 ... 419816.jpg

snorider
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Poulet Morango pour une personne

#13

Post by snorider »

Cheffy,
Wonderful presentation!

Chicken Morengo for one. Served on a table that would have been new when Napoleon tucked into this dish. I tried to bring this back to the southern US with "Carolina Gold" rice, smoked paprika infused oil, and paprika grilled wild caught shrimp. Wild mushrooms, local greens and a tomato, a little balsamic and olive oil, and a fresh locally baked baguette. Just fantastic fare! thanks so much for suggesting this!

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Bon Apetit!
Michael
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it. T.R.

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Gnome
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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#14

Post by Gnome »

and you gave me grief for using shrimp? and yet you used them as well! Looks good!

snorider
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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#15

Post by snorider »

No mention of shrimp, just those dang mud bugs. I do not like crawdads, although I do fish with crawdad patterns now and again...Thanks Jeff.
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it. T.R.

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cheffy
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Re: Chicken Marengo challenge

#16

Post by cheffy »

Not a huge fan of the mud bug either and the wife is even less of a fan. I bought 6 and used the tails And the bodies for stock.
The Marengo for one is a get idea.
Deep down it’s a pretty basic dish. It’s all the add ons and side dishes that drive you nuts.


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