MHM USERS GROUP
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Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#22Nice trick, Lee, using the adjustable bar as a drill guide. Nice jigging setup. I’ve wanted to make more anvils also. You’ve provided a great leg up.
I have a couple different threaded inserts from McMaster-Carr. Could you provide their part number please, for what you’re using? In my conversations with Matt at TMR, they are using only the larger size hold down screw, even in the tip anvils they have in their shop.
Rick
I have a couple different threaded inserts from McMaster-Carr. Could you provide their part number please, for what you’re using? In my conversations with Matt at TMR, they are using only the larger size hold down screw, even in the tip anvils they have in their shop.
Rick
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Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#23I use 92395A114 inserts, have used them on numerous projects without any pulling out.
I’m putting together a “How I Do It” tutorial for making anvils, when it’s done I’ll post a link here, more to follow.
Since my Bellinger has a #2 set screw for the pin I decided to make all the anvils with #2 inserts, never could figure why Tom had different hold down screws.
I’m putting together a “How I Do It” tutorial for making anvils, when it’s done I’ll post a link here, more to follow.
Since my Bellinger has a #2 set screw for the pin I decided to make all the anvils with #2 inserts, never could figure why Tom had different hold down screws.
Regards,
Lee
http://www.grayhacklerods.net
lee@grayhacklerods.net
Monument, CO
There is no greater fan of fly fishing than the worm.
Patrick F. McManus
Lee
http://www.grayhacklerods.net
lee@grayhacklerods.net
Monument, CO
There is no greater fan of fly fishing than the worm.
Patrick F. McManus
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#24Watching the instructional video on setting a taper on the MHM, at the end of the video, Ric says look for the instructional video on "converting any taper" to a MHM taper. I've asked them for it and have looked for this video without success. Anybody have this information to share? NOTE: Were looking for the video, not RodDNA or HexRod conversion information. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioC4ze891ao
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- SpringCreek
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Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#25I know this isn't the video, but do you have Chris Carlins old excel file that converts any taper to settings for the MHM? Hex, Quad or Peta are no problem and you can choose between 60, 61.5, 72, 73.5, 90 and 91.5 degree settings.
JIm
JIm
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Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#27TMR Is listing a few of the accessories as sold out on their website and I am looking for an extra hold down arm for the front of the plane. Anyone have one they would be willing to sell me? I tried emailing TMR, but haven't received a reply.
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Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#28Regards,
Lee
http://www.grayhacklerods.net
lee@grayhacklerods.net
Monument, CO
There is no greater fan of fly fishing than the worm.
Patrick F. McManus
Lee
http://www.grayhacklerods.net
lee@grayhacklerods.net
Monument, CO
There is no greater fan of fly fishing than the worm.
Patrick F. McManus
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#29That is a very good idea Tim. I will do that on my next quad or penta.Tim Anderson wrote: ↑12/27/21 15:38Rather than dressing my anvils often, I do something which helps with adequate support for tip strips. I set the taper so the tip of the strip is pretty much at the end of the anvil. I begin planing with the butt end of the strip at the back end of the anvil and plane until I have a considerable taper. Usually I move up a few inches and plane a bit more. The result is a roughed strip with quite a narrow end which has sufficient support for final planing. I then move the strip to the proper location on the anvil and finish planing. It does help that I make mostly 4-piece rods, so have a lot of room to move around on the anvil.
Tim
Last edited by kermit on 01/14/22 12:30, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#30Got this quote this morning from TMR’s supplier.
Wit-Son Carbide Tool is pleased to quote the following:
TDGW-321 WS16
Carbide Insert
10 pieces @ $11.19 each
20 pieces @ $10.42 each
30 pieces @ $9.65 each
50 pieces @ $8.87 each
100 pieces @ $8.15 each
Delivery: Stock
Regards,
Lee
http://www.grayhacklerods.net
lee@grayhacklerods.net
Monument, CO
There is no greater fan of fly fishing than the worm.
Patrick F. McManus
Lee
http://www.grayhacklerods.net
lee@grayhacklerods.net
Monument, CO
There is no greater fan of fly fishing than the worm.
Patrick F. McManus
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#31SHARPENING CUTTER INSERTS. I have used 1200 mesh diamond lapping plates https://www.amazon.com/DMT-Dia-Sharp-Co ... =8-20&th=1 with some success. You have to swirl the FLAT SIDE of the insert in a circular motion on the lapping plate. Under a microscope you will see the diamond lapping will not be as smooth or sharp as a new insert. Use with diamond abrasive lapping fluid. Then 2000 wet/dry on a flat glass lapping plate. I only sharpen the top flat surface of the insert not the edges. I can resharpen about twice, then the apex where the two cutters meet starts to open up. Again, sharpening will not produce a surface finish as polished or as sharp as a new insert, but it will prolong the life of the insert a little longer. I do notice a difference, I plane wet.
I've tried the Diamond paste polishing compounds https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Lapping- ... s9dHJ1ZQ== on a glass lapping plate, this works too. You can take it a little further here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0926VFD1L/re ... s9dHJ1ZQ== but this is alot of work!
If you have several inserts as I do, keep them in the same lot# and measure the thickness with a micrometer. This assure you have the same thickness for both inserts. Check the inserts apex when assembled into the holder. If you see a gap, that will be problematic during planing.
I've tried the Diamond paste polishing compounds https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Lapping- ... s9dHJ1ZQ== on a glass lapping plate, this works too. You can take it a little further here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0926VFD1L/re ... s9dHJ1ZQ== but this is alot of work!
If you have several inserts as I do, keep them in the same lot# and measure the thickness with a micrometer. This assure you have the same thickness for both inserts. Check the inserts apex when assembled into the holder. If you see a gap, that will be problematic during planing.
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Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#32TMR has them at 25$ for 2 and they are numbered and lettered for orientation so you can keep track of them. Think I will continue to buy them there,
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Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#33I get 6 rods out of a pair of cutters, changing to fresh cutting surfaces on the final 20 thousandths of a tip section. So, the cutter cost for a rod is a bit over $4 (using the $25/pair fireman10 mentions). I think I can live with that.
I tried sharpening on a very fine diamond hone as Kermit mentions and was not satisfied with the results.
Tim
I tried sharpening on a very fine diamond hone as Kermit mentions and was not satisfied with the results.
Tim
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#34And there are six orientations of cutting surfaces per pair if you flip them right to left also since they only cut near the apex. Similar to Tim, we only use fresh cutting surfaces for the final 20 thousandths on a batch of 4 rod sections. By keeping a chart with notes on how each set was last used and rotating back to used surfaces for rough planing we are probably getting 10 rods per cutter pair with no discernible issues. Getting close with power roughing and tapering there’s very little planing anyway with used cutters to get to 20 thou. over final.
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#35kermit wrote: ↑12/27/21 16:24I have butt and tip anvils for some of rod style that I make, and I make Quads, Penta and Hex rods. This may sound a little overboard, but if I have to dress down an anvil, I only take the minimum if anything off the top. This process will make each anvil last for years. You never know what the future holds to get new anvils. Using this process, the anvils are just about set for the proper width and assures that I get as much support on the strip at final planing.
Here is some of them
anvil envy !
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Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#36Any one figured out a good way to ID the anvils? Alcohol pens work for a while then wear away.
Don
Don
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#37I've only made a dozen rods on mine but I use a permanent marker{sharpie}. I use red for the tip anvils and black for the butts. These are the same colors I use to mark the cane butts throughout the build process. I also use these colors to mark the stations and had to darken them after 8 rods.
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Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#38Impression stamp a T, an M or a B at the butt end of each anvil, that will last the life of the anvil. You can also fill the impression with black nail polish to make them stand out.Don Andersen wrote: ↑01/29/22 19:35Any one figured out a good way to ID the anvils? Alcohol pens work for a while then wear away.
Don
Regards,
Lee
http://www.grayhacklerods.net
lee@grayhacklerods.net
Monument, CO
There is no greater fan of fly fishing than the worm.
Patrick F. McManus
Lee
http://www.grayhacklerods.net
lee@grayhacklerods.net
Monument, CO
There is no greater fan of fly fishing than the worm.
Patrick F. McManus
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Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#39Tim,
You mentioned slipping the strip forward multiple times during the planing process.
How do you hold the strip?
Don
You mentioned slipping the strip forward multiple times during the planing process.
How do you hold the strip?
Don
- Tim Anderson
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Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#40The procedure is easier for me because I make mostly 4-piece rods, so the sections are not so long. My strips have the customary hole drilled for the holding screw. I start planing with the strip's screw in the first or second hole in the anvil, move it up a couple of holes, plane, move it again or move it up to the final hole, and finish planing. All this does is narrow down the finest part of the tip so it does not rotate on the very narrow part of the anvil. I learned to do this the hard way, of course.Don Andersen wrote: ↑02/02/22 06:26Tim,
You mentioned slipping the strip forward multiple times during the planing process.
How do you hold the strip?
Don
Tim