MHM USERS GROUP
Moderator: Titelines
- Don Andersen
- Master Guide
- Posts: 638
- Joined: 08/06/07 18:00
- Contact:
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#41Tim,
After watching the building of anvils I was pondering ordering some inserts and adding them every 10” or so.
This is after I had a rough plane tip rotate the other day. Happened at the tip end.
After watching the building of anvils I was pondering ordering some inserts and adding them every 10” or so.
This is after I had a rough plane tip rotate the other day. Happened at the tip end.
- Tim Anderson
- Bamboo Fanatic
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: 10/31/08 19:00
- Location: Lafayette, CA
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#45Thanks Tim, the shims sounds like a good idea. What wall thickness would you use for something like an 8 ft 7 wt? Just trying to get some idea of what to use when I make my copy of a Dickerson 8014 Guide.
- Tim Anderson
- Bamboo Fanatic
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: 10/31/08 19:00
- Location: Lafayette, CA
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#46I don't use a single wall thickness, tapering to smaller wall thicknesses tip-wards. I aim for what looks like a thick-walled pipe. The shims allow you have thicker walls at the ferrules because the plastic anvil is much more flexible than the steel bar below it.
I leave the taper of the bar as it was set for the rod section. The apex of a strip is the centerline of the blank so I have the shims be one-half the diameter of the hollowing. I approximate the setting for my final hollowing cut by letting the hollowing cutter just touch a strip's apex before inserting the shims beneath the plastic anvil. I admit to eyeballing the final cutting depth. If you cut too deep, the strip can later split along the center of its flat. You know how I learned that.
Tim
I leave the taper of the bar as it was set for the rod section. The apex of a strip is the centerline of the blank so I have the shims be one-half the diameter of the hollowing. I approximate the setting for my final hollowing cut by letting the hollowing cutter just touch a strip's apex before inserting the shims beneath the plastic anvil. I admit to eyeballing the final cutting depth. If you cut too deep, the strip can later split along the center of its flat. You know how I learned that.
Tim
- Don Andersen
- Master Guide
- Posts: 638
- Joined: 08/06/07 18:00
- Contact:
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#48Don, please post how that works out and if you had any trouble with setting it up. I have a couple of roughing anvils that I don't use and I have been thinking about doing something similar. Maybe convert one or two to dedicated swelled butt anvils, while adding top mounting points.
- Don Andersen
- Master Guide
- Posts: 638
- Joined: 08/06/07 18:00
- Contact:
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#49Gotta clear the shop work before I start more projects. 5 new ones and 3 repairs ahead of any anvil work.Canewrap wrote: ↑02/09/22 12:31Don, please post how that works out and if you had any trouble with setting it up. I have a couple of roughing anvils that I don't use and I have been thinking about doing something similar. Maybe convert one or two to dedicated swelled butt anvils, while adding top mounting points.
Don
- SpringCreek
- Bamboo Fanatic
- Posts: 3211
- Joined: 02/24/07 19:00
- Location: Wildwood, MO
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Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#50Their is a YouTube video from Tom Morgan rodsmiths that shows one simple option for hollow fluting using the fluting cutter and a c-clamp. You can find the demonstration at the link below starting about the 5 minute mark.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcJCI4eqGbQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcJCI4eqGbQ
Then as it was, then again it will be. Though the course may change sometimes, rivers always reach the sea. - Led Zeppelin, 10 Years Gone
http://www.splittingcane.com
http://www.splittingcane.com
- Tim Anderson
- Bamboo Fanatic
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: 10/31/08 19:00
- Location: Lafayette, CA
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#51The method shown for setting up hollowing will provide a single wall thickness over the entire length of the strip. Nothing wrong with that, but reducing wall thickness towards the tip of the rod can be advantageous because it reduces swing weight there.SpringCreek wrote: ↑02/09/22 16:23Their is a YouTube video from Tom Morgan rodsmiths that shows one simple option for hollow fluting using the fluting cutter and a c-clamp. You can find the demonstration at the link below starting about the 5 minute mark.
The C-clamp is simply a stop to avoid hollowing under a ferrule.
Tim
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#52Just received this.
After lots of research we've landed on a good forum option to host the Morgan Hand Mill discussion board. This new interface will do a much better job of archiving old threads to refer back to and keep current discussions up top. Once we have moved everyone over to the new forum we will discontinue the list serve as it exists now because the talklist format is harder and harder to support.
Instructions: In the future you will also be able to find a link to the forum on our homepage under support. You will be required to be a member to post threads and respond to other users.
To sign up -
1. Click here to go to the new forum page
2. In the top right corner click "Register" and create a password
3. Go to your email and open the email you receive and click "activate account"
4. We will then have to give you permission on our back end to be a user and you'll receive an email saying that you're good to go. I will activate accounts as quickly as possible but please give me 24 hours to get it done.
5. After you've been approved you're free to post and respond to threads.
Hopefully this will be a much better resource for all of us and we look forward to sharing bamboo rod building ideas here and growing from the collective knowledge base.
-Matt, Joel and Ric
Matt Barber
Owner - Tom Morgan Rodsmiths
tommorganrodsmiths.com
matt@morganrods.com
406-600-6015
After lots of research we've landed on a good forum option to host the Morgan Hand Mill discussion board. This new interface will do a much better job of archiving old threads to refer back to and keep current discussions up top. Once we have moved everyone over to the new forum we will discontinue the list serve as it exists now because the talklist format is harder and harder to support.
Instructions: In the future you will also be able to find a link to the forum on our homepage under support. You will be required to be a member to post threads and respond to other users.
To sign up -
1. Click here to go to the new forum page
2. In the top right corner click "Register" and create a password
3. Go to your email and open the email you receive and click "activate account"
4. We will then have to give you permission on our back end to be a user and you'll receive an email saying that you're good to go. I will activate accounts as quickly as possible but please give me 24 hours to get it done.
5. After you've been approved you're free to post and respond to threads.
Hopefully this will be a much better resource for all of us and we look forward to sharing bamboo rod building ideas here and growing from the collective knowledge base.
-Matt, Joel and Ric
Matt Barber
Owner - Tom Morgan Rodsmiths
tommorganrodsmiths.com
matt@morganrods.com
406-600-6015
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#53Great news! That’s what I was hoping might happen as a result of this posting
Thank you
Dorenac. a.k.a. Rich
Thank you
Dorenac. a.k.a. Rich
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#54Does anyone have a spare hold down shoe? Can be 60, 61.5, or the 73 degree hold down. I have everything else I need for my old plane. I'm using my old plane for roughing and hollowing, so any hold down foot is better than none. PM me if you have one I can buy from you.
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#55I just signed up at the new MHM forum on the TMR website. Looks very nice. Not much activity yet but I'm hoping it becomes a good resource. It's on their web site under "Support" as Matt mentioned in Scott's post above.
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#56I went to the MHM TMR website discussion board to add something to it. The forum is gone. Mabe doing maintenace?
Zia Rods Brochure
www.ziarods.com
www.ziarods.com
- Tim Anderson
- Bamboo Fanatic
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: 10/31/08 19:00
- Location: Lafayette, CA
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#57It just opened for me. Perhaps the problem you found was only temporary.
Tim
Tim
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#58I can access the web site but not the MHM discussion forum.
Zia Rods Brochure
www.ziarods.com
www.ziarods.com
- Tim Anderson
- Bamboo Fanatic
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: 10/31/08 19:00
- Location: Lafayette, CA
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#59The MHM discussion forum just opened again for me and I successfully logged on, so it appears to be active. You might try deleting your browser's recent history and see if you can get the MHM forum to open.
Tim
Tim
Re: MHM USERS GROUP
#60The versatile Morgan Hand Mill (MHM). Let me tell you some interesting things that the MHM can do for you. You can make Hex, Quad, or Penta rods. You can make them all with a swelled butt from minor to major and you can hollow the butt and/or tips too.
You can take any standard taper and add to it a swelled butt. Take a Dickerson 8013 taper and add a swelled butt, now you have a D8013S (S for swell). This makes for a stiffer rod action. Add to it a hollow butt, and now you have an D8013HS (H for hollow and S for swell). Now you have a stiffer rod that is a little lighter. You will find this works nicely with several standard tapers. Just manipulate it to suit your taste. I like adding .030 shims for a butt swell to a PHY Perfectionist taper. This gives the rod a stiff butt and a crisp action. I call it a 76S. There are hundreds of proven tapers and they work fine as is. But by using the same taper numbers for a known rod and adding a little twist to it, well now you have something different. Such is the fun of the versatile MHM. The MHM has other features, but this is the standard things that can be done with it.
You can take any standard taper and add to it a swelled butt. Take a Dickerson 8013 taper and add a swelled butt, now you have a D8013S (S for swell). This makes for a stiffer rod action. Add to it a hollow butt, and now you have an D8013HS (H for hollow and S for swell). Now you have a stiffer rod that is a little lighter. You will find this works nicely with several standard tapers. Just manipulate it to suit your taste. I like adding .030 shims for a butt swell to a PHY Perfectionist taper. This gives the rod a stiff butt and a crisp action. I call it a 76S. There are hundreds of proven tapers and they work fine as is. But by using the same taper numbers for a known rod and adding a little twist to it, well now you have something different. Such is the fun of the versatile MHM. The MHM has other features, but this is the standard things that can be done with it.
Zia Rods Brochure
www.ziarods.com
www.ziarods.com