Hardware blacking (blackening) question
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Hardware blacking (blackening) question
#1Just curious if it's.possible to blacken hardware without removing it from the rod?
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- steeliefool
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Re: Hardware blacking (blackening) question
#2What do you mean by " blackening"? If you mean "japaning", I don't see why not. I believe Heddon used india ink followed by clear laquer.
Re: Hardware blacking (blackening) question
#3Sorry I mean Blueing I suppose. Redoing like in the picture.steeliefool wrote:What do you mean by " blackening"? If you mean "japaning", I don't see why not. I believe Heddon used india ink followed by clear laquer.
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- fisherman911
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Re: Hardware blacking (blackening) question
#4It can be done I've done it a number of times. The trick is to get what you want to blue clean and smooth while still attached to the rod. What I've done is tape off anything I didn't want to damage or get the Blueing on. Then I used fine steel wool to smooth up the area as best I could. I then cleaned the area with denatured alcohol to remove any oil. I've only ever used Brass Black which I applied with a Q Tip following the instructions on the bottle. I think you could use any other liquid product following the same procedure. The results were not always perfect, but I was mostly satisfied.
Re: Hardware blacking (blackening) question
#5Thank you!! Is there any issue with like brush marks or does it lay down as it dries?fisherman911 wrote:It can be done I've done it a number of times. The trick is to get what you want to blue clean and smooth while still attached to the rod. What I've done is tape off anything I didn't want to damage or get the Blueing on. Then I used fine steel wool to smooth up the area as best I could. I then cleaned the area with denatured alcohol to remove any oil. I've only ever used Brass Black which I applied with a Q Tip following the instructions on the bottle. I think you could use any other liquid product following the same procedure. The results were not always perfect, but I was mostly satisfied.
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Re: Hardware blacking (blackening) question
#6I always fit the ferrules first, then oxidise them, when I am building a new rod. It works best for me although I know that not everyone does it that way.
See viewtopic.php?p=823858#p823858
See viewtopic.php?p=823858#p823858
Re: Hardware blacking (blackening) question
#7I do the ferrules on the rod these days. There are a couple of recipes for bluing solutions floating around the internet and I'd prefer those rather than the commercially available ones which seem to get weaker with time. One home solution involves Photo Fixer. Garrison has a couple in the Carmichael book, one which uses chemicals that I'm not totally sure you can get easily still.
Re: Hardware blacking (blackening) question
#8What I finally learned about bluing:
Yes, bluing in place is fine, though things like narrow winding checks are always a PITA.
Yes, BC Brass Black is fine if you follow the directions, which I hadn't been doing closely enough. My best results include (whenever possible) removal of all old bluing with 4/0 steel wool, cleaning with BC Cleaner Degreaser (many products work but alcohol wasn't as effective for me), "rinse/repeat" multiple applications, generally three seem to do it but no reason not to go another if you aren't getting the darkness you're after. I don't expect the results that Payne and others got, but they didn't use an off-the-shelf product with easy cleanup. I'm using an easy to obtain product right out of the bottle, and I'm standing at the kitchen sink when I do this. When you don't have a shop or garage to work in, that last point really counts.
Yes, bluing in place is fine, though things like narrow winding checks are always a PITA.
Yes, BC Brass Black is fine if you follow the directions, which I hadn't been doing closely enough. My best results include (whenever possible) removal of all old bluing with 4/0 steel wool, cleaning with BC Cleaner Degreaser (many products work but alcohol wasn't as effective for me), "rinse/repeat" multiple applications, generally three seem to do it but no reason not to go another if you aren't getting the darkness you're after. I don't expect the results that Payne and others got, but they didn't use an off-the-shelf product with easy cleanup. I'm using an easy to obtain product right out of the bottle, and I'm standing at the kitchen sink when I do this. When you don't have a shop or garage to work in, that last point really counts.
- fisherman911
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Re: Hardware blacking (blackening) question
#9I've never had a problem with "brush marks" when using Brass Black. It lays down pretty even. Also, Dawn Dishwashing liquid and hot water makes a pretty effective degreaser but is not always usable when the part is still attached to the rod.
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Re: Hardware blacking (blackening) question
#10Shouldn’t really be a problem. Ofcourse, if there is a lot of detail on the brass work, it might be harder to get a perfect result, but after 3-4 coats it should look good.
If the hardweare is monted directly onto the handle, it should be said that you might get some discolouration on the cork or wood. It can sometimes be hard to avoid this. Therefore, I usually prefer do remove all hardwear before bluing, except of ferrules.
Here is a picture of a 1915 Hardy «Victoria» salmon rod that I redid a while ago.
If the hardweare is monted directly onto the handle, it should be said that you might get some discolouration on the cork or wood. It can sometimes be hard to avoid this. Therefore, I usually prefer do remove all hardwear before bluing, except of ferrules.
Here is a picture of a 1915 Hardy «Victoria» salmon rod that I redid a while ago.
Re: Hardware blacking (blackening) question
#11Thanks very much all!!
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Re: Hardware blacking (blackening) question
#12Hi Guys, I use Brass Black to blue ferrules on the rod as others have suggested. Other hardware, not so much.
Jay Edwards
Jay Edwards