Agreed. If I have to totally strip a line, I use roughly the same baking soda to water ratios.
Proceed with caution if you generally want to clean the exterior, Better yet, don't proceed, at least with this baking soda solution. I suggest very restrained use of mineral spirits to clean up a line.
1) Bath in a solution of baking soda and warm water. Roughly 1/4 cup soda to a gallon of water. Loose coils, 5 or 10 minutes only, then a thorough rinse. This seems to get the top layer of ooze off, without stripping the line completely.
I think you need to be careful here, because when I tried it about the same length of time, it took all of the finish off of the line.
I just fixed a sticky silk line today. It was refinished by me 5 years ago, and has been stock on one of my Pridex since. First I ran i trough a cloth full of talk 6 times. Afterwards I polished the talk off with turpentine. Lastly, I dressed it with Mucillin. It shoots like a rocket now!
so you rubbed the line through a cloth with talc 6 times and then polished the talc off with turpentine ? i have been trying turp and it seems to take a lot of effort and time to get the gunk off . does the talc make that process easier ?
so you rubbed the line through a cloth with talc 6 times and then polished the talc off with turpentine ? i have been trying turp and it seems to take a lot of effort and time to get the gunk off . does the talc make that process easier ?
Yes, thats what I did. First I tried to wash it it with soap, then rubbed it with tupentine, It was still sicky. Then I rubbed it with a talc loaded cloth. Then I ran through a tupentine loaded cotton cloth, until the talc was washed off. That removed the stickyness. Finally I dressed it with Mucillin.
Last edited by Morten on 06/25/22 13:20, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks for the good conversation. After reading more about the baking soda hazards, I'm going to re-think that part of the process. I'm learning as I go, just like you guys.
My latest: I had a Thebault DT5, NIB, fairly sticky. I carefully unspooled it, took it outside and tied it to my sawhorses. Rubbed down well with turpentine, using a saturated fine scotchbrite pad and gentle pressure. Let it soak up the sun for a few days, then ran a microfiber cloth soaked in Japan drier over it several times, allowing some drying between passes. Once it seemed hardened and smooth, I wiped it down several times with the Thebault line dressing (I have many large tins of this, it's like a soft wax and works pretty well). It casts like a dream, no complaints!
a cautionary tale as we work through this . last night i tried morten's method . i used a micro fiber cloth and some talc i have . i worked the line over with the cloth until i felt that the stickiness was gone . but when i looked closely at the line i observed (old eyes ) that i had abraded the line itself . i am thinking now that a line that is that sticky needs to be subjected to the baking soda treatment , no shortcuts . i really would not have stopped working the line any sooner because it still had gunk to remove , i should have gone slower , checking the line more often and stopping before i wrecked it and trying another method to get results .
this the gunk from the fist 10' of line .
a cautionary tale as we work through this . last night i tried morten's method . i used a micro fiber cloth and some talc i have . i worked the line over with the cloth until i felt that the stickiness was gone . but when i looked closely at the line i observed (old eyes ) that i had abraded the line itself . i am thinking now that a line that is that sticky needs to be subjected to the baking soda treatment , no shortcuts . i really would not have stopped working the line any sooner because it still had gunk to remove , i should have gone slower , checking the line more often and stopping before i wrecked it and trying another method to get results .
this the gunk from the fist 10' of line .
any input from phoenix on this yet ?
Sorry to hear that. I think the oil on your line, was in a very bad state. I have refinished a few lines before, with various results. It is not that difficult to refinish a line, the important part is having the right tools, and a lot of patience. I have come to that conclusion, that I now leave refinishing to the pros. It would be interesting, to find out why some lines turn sticky over time, and why some don´t?
I have come to that conclusion, that I now leave refinishing to the pros.
Names and contact info. please…
I think if you ask politely, most makers of silk lines offer a refinish. Some even refinish lines of other makers. In the US, I wild call or write Zhenoutfitters.
When I asked the folks at Phoenix about a tacky line I had this is what they said:
If the line feels oily, rather than sticky, just give it a wipe with a soft cloth and a light touch of white spirit/ turpentine substitute (not pure turps). Then a light coat of Red Muclin or Otter Butter. If your line is sticky, rather than oily, clean it the same way as above and then dust with talcum powder (baby powder) and it should be fine.
I was not familiar with the term, white spirits, but is just mineral spirits.
Be careful not to breathe in too much talcum powder it’s not good for you. A little probably won’t hurt but why risk it I use a respirator when using it in rodmaking.
John
Last edited by BigTJ on 06/27/22 14:09, edited 1 time in total.
When I asked the folks at Phoenix about a tacky line I had this is what they said:
If the line feels oily, rather than sticky, just give it a wipe with a soft cloth and a light touch of white spirit/ turpentine substitute (not pure turps). Then a light coat of Red Muclin or Otter Butter. If your line is sticky, rather than oily, clean it the same way as above and then dust with talcum powder (baby powder) and it should be fine.
I was not familiar with the term, white spirits, but is just mineral spirits.
I just got the same response from Phoenix. I'm going to add the talc to my regime, and I'm pretty sold on the Japan drier for the stickier problems.
Using talc on a tacky line may solve the tacky problem, but it appears it would do so by leaving the powder embedded in the finish. Likely a quick fix designed to satisfy an irritated consumer. I favor the turpentine and/or drier approach. It doesn’t offer immediate gratification, but it solves the problem and leaves the line in its intended oxidized condition. The process requires more time, but very little effort as sunlight and fresh air do most of the work.
Using talc on a tacky line may solve the tacky problem, but it appears it would do so by leaving the powder embedded in the finish. Likely a quick fix designed to satisfy an irritated consumer. I favor the turpentine and/or drier approach. It doesn’t offer immediate gratification, but it solves the problem and leaves the line in its intended oxidized condition. The process requires more time, but very little effort as sunlight and fresh air do most of the work.
Talc is no stand alone fix.Talc is used as a polish, and should then be completely washed off with turpentine. Then the line should hang and dry. Just like when you make a silk line from scratch, where you polish with steel wool, talc, turpentine after each layer of boiled linseed oil has dried up