Sticky silk line
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Re: Sticky silk line
#21it occurs to me .... has anyone reached out to the folks at phoenix about this subject ? they were quite helpful to me on another occasion when i was trying to identify a line i had .
- kevinhaney1
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Re: Sticky silk line
#23This is what I love about this forum. All these experienced people working together to solve a problem.
Kevin
Kevin
Kevin Haney, Vintage Anglers
http://www.vintageanglers.com
http://www.vintageanglers.com
Re: Sticky silk line
#24There is a very simple solution. Don’t leave a silk fly line in its original packaging for a couple decades. As soon as you get it spool it into loose coils and put otter butter on it. Keep it in loose coils hung on a coat rack in a closet that is cracked open to allow fresh air. Use one of those yarn wonders from Amazon or a craft shop that makes 2+ ft coils. The line will always be nice and supple with simple care.
John
John
Re: Sticky silk line
#25I thought that I had lavished enough care over the years on my mere green Phoenix line- removing from it from the reel on the drive home, storing loose during the winter, following care instructions and fishing it regularly.
The line however has now darkened, to almost a light brown and has become tacky to the touch, rather than sticky over its length. If left for any time with loose coils touching on the line winder (see picture) it now sticks with flat spots on the finish when pulled apart.
So..I have been following this thread with interest. I would also like to restore the line 'cuticle' as mentioned in an earlier post, however the 'Copal- linseed varnish' mentioned is not available (or known of) at my local art supplies store.
Having painted in oils I am familiar with Japan Drier, I also like the idea of rubbing the line down with turpentine- to flatten out the lumps and bumps from sticking.
Would rubbing the line down first with turpentine to clear the surface 'gunk', then leaving in the sun (loosely coiled, turning over in the sun..) for a few days, then applying the Japan Dryer 0r if I can find it the Copal Varnish, be the best route?
Not being familiar with Otter Butter, although it sounds preferable to the Musilin,it sound like a good 'conditioner' possibly helping it to stay on the water surface, but may just go over the surface of the aforementioned small lumps and bumps rather than a treatment for smoothing out the line.
Malcolm
The line however has now darkened, to almost a light brown and has become tacky to the touch, rather than sticky over its length. If left for any time with loose coils touching on the line winder (see picture) it now sticks with flat spots on the finish when pulled apart.
So..I have been following this thread with interest. I would also like to restore the line 'cuticle' as mentioned in an earlier post, however the 'Copal- linseed varnish' mentioned is not available (or known of) at my local art supplies store.
Having painted in oils I am familiar with Japan Drier, I also like the idea of rubbing the line down with turpentine- to flatten out the lumps and bumps from sticking.
Would rubbing the line down first with turpentine to clear the surface 'gunk', then leaving in the sun (loosely coiled, turning over in the sun..) for a few days, then applying the Japan Dryer 0r if I can find it the Copal Varnish, be the best route?
Not being familiar with Otter Butter, although it sounds preferable to the Musilin,it sound like a good 'conditioner' possibly helping it to stay on the water surface, but may just go over the surface of the aforementioned small lumps and bumps rather than a treatment for smoothing out the line.
Malcolm
Re: Sticky silk line
#26I think that's right. Though, as the owner of a shelf full of NIB silk lines approximately 10-15 years old, I note that some are gunky and some are dry and supple. This applies to both the Thebault and the Phoenix.BigTJ wrote: ↑06/20/22 11:27There is a very simple solution. Don’t leave a silk fly line in its original packaging for a couple decades. As soon as you get it spool it into loose coils and put otter butter on it. Keep it in loose coils hung on a coat rack in a closet that is cracked open to allow fresh air. Use one of those yarn wonders from Amazon or a craft shop that makes 2+ ft coils. The line will always be nice and supple with simple care.
John
I think that would be a good procedure. The dressing, liberally and repeated applied, does do a lot! Otter Butter is great, Red Mucilin is fine I think, and I've been getting good results from the Thebault dressing, especially since I have several dozen big shoe polish tins of it.oddsnrods wrote: ↑06/20/22 13:36
Having painted in oils I am familiar with Japan Drier, I also like the idea of rubbing the line down with turpentine- to flatten out the lumps and bumps from sticking.
Would rubbing the line down first with turpentine to clear the surface 'gunk', then leaving in the sun (loosely coiled, turning over in the sun..) for a few days, then applying the Japan Dryer 0r if I can find it the Copal Varnish, be the best route?
Not being familiar with Otter Butter, although it sounds preferable to the Musilin,it sound like a good 'conditioner' possibly helping it to stay on the water surface, but may just go over the surface of the aforementioned small lumps and bumps rather than a treatment for smoothing out the line.
Malcolm
Re: Sticky silk line
#27Thank you for the reply. Japan Drier or Copal Varnish (if I can find it) ? Also to stretch the line out taught, or pull it through the various cloths of turpentine/ finish.
I have some artist cold pressed linseed oil, any use for this in the process...?
Finally, regular or artists turpentine?
Malcolm
I have some artist cold pressed linseed oil, any use for this in the process...?
Finally, regular or artists turpentine?
Malcolm
Re: Sticky silk line
#28This is just my method, others may differ and I am still in the experimental phase.oddsnrods wrote: ↑06/20/22 16:09Thank you for the reply. Japan Drier or Copal Varnish (if I can find it) ? Also to stretch the line out taught, or pull it through the various cloths of turpentine/ finish.
I have some artist cold pressed linseed oil, any use for this in the process...?
Finally, regular or artists turpentine?
Malcolm
Japan drier. I haven't done any re-varnishing and I don't think I'd put new varnish over sticky. Linseed oil takes forever to dry, if it isn't "boiled" linseed oil, it may never dry.
My current method, which seems to be working but is subject to change:
1) Bath in a solution of baking soda and warm water. Roughly 1/4 cup soda to a gallon of water. Loose coils, 5 or 10 minutes only, then a thorough rinse. This seems to get the top layer of ooze off, without stripping the line completely.
2) Stretch line out in backyard between sawhorses. I put a few screws in the horses so I can zigzag the line back and forth, takes up less room.
3) After a day or two of drying, wipe down well with turpentine, mineral spirits or 3M Adhesive Cleaner. All seem to work, they remove the gunk and soften the uneven spots. Rub down with microfiber rag and repeat until line feels smooth. You will get some residue off.
4) Wipe down with Japan drier. I have been doing 2 or 3 passes, with an hour or so between. Use plenty.
5) Let dry outdoors several more days.
6) Grease down with Otter Butter or similar. Don't spare it. The Thebault instructions say to do this 5 times (!)
That should give you a fishable line! Others please chime in.
- kevinhaney1
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Re: Sticky silk line
#29I think you need to be careful here, because when I tried it about the same length of time, it took all of the finish off of the line.1) Bath in a solution of baking soda and warm water. Roughly 1/4 cup soda to a gallon of water. Loose coils, 5 or 10 minutes only, then a thorough rinse. This seems to get the top layer of ooze off, without stripping the line completely.
Kevin
Kevin Haney, Vintage Anglers
http://www.vintageanglers.com
http://www.vintageanglers.com
Re: Sticky silk line
#30i purchased a kingfisher line that was allegedly a dt salmon line . when i got it (ebay ) it was sticky to the point of being " gunky " . so , i followed " overmywaders .com " instructions per the baking soda . i would say what i did took the line down to a bare silk line . turned out the line was only 50' and i returned it , os i never followed up with the rest of russ' instructions to see how it turned out . the instructions were for 1/3 box baking / 1 gal. water , 20 minutes
Re: Sticky silk line
#31Good to know. Not sure why it has worked for me, I will measure and time more carefully next time and see what I get.kevinhaney1 wrote: ↑06/20/22 17:28I think you need to be careful here, because when I tried it about the same length of time, it took all of the finish off of the line.1) Bath in a solution of baking soda and warm water. Roughly 1/4 cup soda to a gallon of water. Loose coils, 5 or 10 minutes only, then a thorough rinse. This seems to get the top layer of ooze off, without stripping the line completely.
Kevin
PK
Re: Sticky silk line
#32Otter Butter is not a line conditioner, you can apply as many coats as you want and it will not penetrate the varnished. It's a floatant, just working the OB back and forth will soften the line just because your manipulating it.
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Re: Sticky silk line
#33I bought a salmon line from Paul (Short Tip) back in March. I soaked it in baking soda and water for about 20 minutes and a lot of junk came off onto the rag when I wiped it off. It seems to still have a coating though. After it dried for a day or so I rubbed it down with Mucilin. It casts just fine. I'm taking it with me to Alaska in September to hopefully catch some silvers on it.
...as for us we pin our faith and fealty to the silk-wound PENTAGONAL rod cunningly yet simply devised of its FIVE subtle, individual triangular strips of cane throughout...
Holden, George Parker. (modified by me) Idyl of the Split Bamboo
Holden, George Parker. (modified by me) Idyl of the Split Bamboo
Re: Sticky silk line
#34Short tip, can you be a little more Pacific or a basic outline About how the Japan Drier works, on the silk fly line, and is this process only used for the Stickey Silk fly line.
Re: Sticky silk line
#35I would suggest that you fish that line before you head out. If you soaked for 20 min's you have removed more than the gunk. Just sayin.chsparkman wrote: ↑06/21/22 18:46I bought a salmon line from Paul (Short Tip) back in March. I soaked it in baking soda and water for about 20 minutes and a lot of junk came off onto the rag when I wiped it off. It seems to still have a coating though. After it dried for a day or so I rubbed it down with Mucilin. It casts just fine. I'm taking it with me to Alaska in September to hopefully catch some silvers on it.
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Re: Sticky silk line
#36You could be right narcodog...we'll see what happens.
...as for us we pin our faith and fealty to the silk-wound PENTAGONAL rod cunningly yet simply devised of its FIVE subtle, individual triangular strips of cane throughout...
Holden, George Parker. (modified by me) Idyl of the Split Bamboo
Holden, George Parker. (modified by me) Idyl of the Split Bamboo
Re: Sticky silk line
#37The Japan drier is a curing accelerant for varnish and oil based finishes. It was suggested to me by others. It seems to enable the softened varnish to re-harden, with the aid of UV light and a little time.
Re: Sticky silk line
#38Look at your line under magnification. If you see braid coming through the finish is too thin and you will likely damage the silk.
Agree with other 20 min soak was likely too much but hard to be sure without looking at the line. Better to know now, so you can re strip it completely and refinish it, if required.
John
Last edited by BigTJ on 06/23/22 22:36, edited 1 time in total.
- chsparkman
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Re: Sticky silk line
#39Geez guys thanks for caring. I checked the line and there is still a coat of varnish covering the silk. I'm taking it fishing.
...as for us we pin our faith and fealty to the silk-wound PENTAGONAL rod cunningly yet simply devised of its FIVE subtle, individual triangular strips of cane throughout...
Holden, George Parker. (modified by me) Idyl of the Split Bamboo
Holden, George Parker. (modified by me) Idyl of the Split Bamboo
Re: Sticky silk line
#40I don’t actually care what you do with your line I just know soaking a silk fly line in baking soda and water for 20 mins is a good way to ruin the finish. Those are basic instructions for taking the varnish off.
John
John