Using ProKote

This board is for discussing the repair and restoration of bamboo fly rods, makers discussion and construction techniques relating to same. Examples would be different techniques or methods used by restorationists and makers.

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henkverhaar
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Re: Using ProKote

#21

Post by henkverhaar »

DonT wrote:
05/11/22 10:22
I should have added that, if you are going to weigh out epoxies, be aware that the resin is more dense than the hardener for most systems, so to get equal volumes you need to weigh about 1.2X more resin. This is true for Flex Coat, Brampton 20/20, and UHU 300+, which are the ones I use the most.
Mmm, not sure about that 'most'. But yes, it IS true for some of the better structural epoxies, like Araldite or UHU Endfest 300+. Many consumer-grade epoxies though have resin and hardener densities that are much closer; making sure you get the technical data sheets from the manufacturer for the epoxy one uses is generally advisable. The UHU TDS is better than most that I've seen...

Epoxy resins are usually fairly 'simple' components - almost pure prepolymerized bisphenol / epichlorohydrin - usually in the 3-5 repeating units range. The hardener composition is usually much more variable. There's usually a lot of fillers/modifiers/bulkers, in addition to the actual hardener, and the nature of the hardener may also vary quite a lot... For anyone that is interested in the chemistry of epoxy resins, there's a fair amount of technical information floating around on the internet. It's not super-accessible, but it is out there...

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