To switch, or not to switch?

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Recidivist13
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To switch, or not to switch?

#1

Post by Recidivist13 »

Thinking about making a Dickerson 8015 guide special 3 pce as my next rod. Toying with the idea of using a reel seat that can take a removable short 5” switch handle. Is there going to be any real benefit to this, or is this still going to be too short to be of much use?
I’ve never done two handed casting but it is something that interests me.
Cheers
Brendan

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BigTJ
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Re: To switch, or not to switch?

#2

Post by BigTJ »

The 8015 is probably about the worst possible taper I can think of for a switch rod. It’s short (for a switch) fast and heavy (line wise). It’s really just an overhead rod. A C taper Powell is a much better choice. 9 ft or longer.

My opinion anyway.

John

trouttrapper
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Re: To switch, or not to switch?

#3

Post by trouttrapper »

Big TJ is absolutely correct with his comments. Furthermore, converting the 8015 to a 3 piece rod would make it even more of a telephone pole. As is, the taper is cataloged as a 7 weight. In reality, it is every bit an 8 weight and some believe it to be a 9. Not a good choice for what you are trying to make.
Lou B.

Recidivist13
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Re: To switch, or not to switch?

#4

Post by Recidivist13 »

Thanks for advice, which is why I asked the question, not having any switch casting experience. I’m keen to make the rod as here in Australia I usually fish saltwater and heavy freshwater with Graphite rods, so this rod should suit my casting style I believe. I’ll leave the switch as a separate project down the line, just playing with ideas before gathering hardwear for the build.

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BigTJ
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Re: To switch, or not to switch?

#5

Post by BigTJ »

A short fighting butt would be a perfect addition to the rod for that application.

Cheers,

-John

Recidivist13
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Re: To switch, or not to switch?

#6

Post by Recidivist13 »

Yes, I’ll go a short one, I like them primarily to keep the reel off the ground.

kakaryan
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Re: To switch, or not to switch?

#7

Post by kakaryan »

Hi mate I finally fished the Dickerson 801611 that rod we talked about on email. To switch (spey cast) it depends a lot on the line. I tried the Rio Single Handed Spey it is a fantastic line for shooting long line overhead cast but the head (33ft) is too long for this 8ft rod to do spey cast when the head is out of the tip top. It is good for 9ft rod though. For 8ft rod you need to use those shorter heads such as Airflo Scout and OPST. As a general rule head length = 3X rod length. This would work for close quarter. I too think a 9ft and longer rod would be more practical for spey works.

DonT
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Re: To switch, or not to switch?

#8

Post by DonT »

Yes, the length of the Scandi/ Skagit shooting head really matters in setting a proper anchor for Spey casting. You need a short one with that rod. Also, be aware that change of direction casts really put a lot of stress on the rod above and below metal ferrules. Thus a lot of boo Spey rods use taped splice joints….. I have personal experience with the high stress at a ferrule when skagit casting with a10’6” switch rod I made…….
Don Titterington
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oddsnrods
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Re: To switch, or not to switch?

#9

Post by oddsnrods »

All methods of joining bamboo rod sections will be a 'compromise' to some extent, with pros and cons to each. There can be various reasons why any rod may break above and below the ferrule:

Insufficient glue, overly tempered bamboo, 'enthusiastic' hollowing, 'station' reduction and excessive strain being four of them.

Having made, and not yet fractured, several double handed spey/ switch type rods with metal ferrules, I personally would not hesitate using them; preferring their convenience and appearance.

The only advantages to using splices is that the cost of two sets of ferrules will not be a factor and there would be some weight saved, however a couple of layers of hockey tape (x2) also weigh a few grams.

As far as the forces are concerned changing casting direction in spey style casting- fair enough, with longer rods (12' +) plus heavy lines, but less than 12' using compact lines (not Skagit) with a suitable cast, this should not be an issue.

Casting muskie jerk style baits on bamboo bait casting rods, involves similar 'twisting torque' of the rod sections, fortunately I have also yet to experience any issues with this style either.

Malcolm

DonT
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Re: To switch, or not to switch?

#10

Post by DonT »

Hey Malcolm, be fair, I was using a short skagit head with maybe 8 ft of T-11 sink tip when I broke my rod so that was a lot of weight I was flinging around. The rod was partially hollowed, but that was not where it broke, interestingly enough. All your points are well made. I do know many of the west coast and Canadian builders of Spey rods tend to use splice joints and I have been told a couple times that this is done to minimize stress concentration at the joints since there is obviously then no metal to wood transition. I repaired that rod and am going to keep using it with a floating compact scandi head so much less weight to throw and we’ll see how it goes.

Best,
Don
Don Titterington
Desert Canyon Rods
West Linn, OR
Repairs/Renovations
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oddsnrods
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Re: To switch, or not to switch?

#11

Post by oddsnrods »

I chatted to Bob Clay(West Coast bamboo spey rod maker) a few years ago when he came to our Canadian Cane gathering and asked why he spliced his rods. He replied- as otherwise, too many were breaking using ferrules.

I cast one of his rods (and he mine) and his were feather light and very hollowed, they suit splices as do others of their type.

As mentioned I like ferrules, and do not overly hollow, but may try a splice one day.

Malcolm

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