bluing ferrules

[troutnut]

I use to use Brownells Ortho Blue for bluing ferrules but I guess it is no longer available. Has anyone used Brownells Oxpho Blue for bluing ferrules or what do some of you use.
Thanks
Fred

[bluesjay]

Hi Guys, I've used it for years. It gets black. There's a learning curve, but not much:

https://www.amazon.com/Brass-Finish-3-O ... B09JYKZLG7

Jay Edwards

[eapling]

Brownells site has the 4oz size listed as available, but the 32oz as not.

You might try them.

[PJ Julius]

+1 on the brass black.

[jim royston]

I use Nickel Silver Bluing from the Alchemist. I've been using it for years. One dip for one minute.

[jeffkn1]

Birchwood Casey Brass Black is more widely distributed than most, but learning curve applies there as well. Two things I finally got through my head: parts have to be really clean, and at least 2-3 applications is necessary to get full coverage. It's no competition for the stuff like Payne and Thomas concocted but it alleviates anxieties about rub marks on the hardware of those 100 year old rods. My anxieties about them, anyway.

[troutnut]

Thanks for all the comments. I'm not sure which one I will try.
Fred

[jeffkn1]

With Birchwood Casey, I also clean with their Cleaner Degreaser.
This is a common topic for discussion so don't overlook searching the archives.

[Arctic-Grayling]

Hey…..
You guys using the Birchwood Casey Brass Black, care to give us a short course in using it to avoid pitfalls in the learning curve.
I want to try turning a W&M reel seat black # 1. # 2 what is advised to preserve the darkening.
Many thanks in advance.
……….Barney

[DonT]

Yeah for the Brass Black it's really important to get the metal clean to start with. I let it sit on the metal for for about a minute, then wipe the excess away with a paper shop towel then really wipe it down with a damp soft cloth. If it's blotchy, I scrub it all away with fine steel wool and start over again. It might take two or three passes, sometimes more, to get it even. When I am happy, I very lightly polish it with fine steel wool and then coat it with a very thin coat of thinned epoxy or thinned varnish, depending on the rod. Lacquer works too. Hope this helps

[bluesjay]

Hi Guys, #1, I would never blue a Granger/WM seat, but the advise given is necessary; clean, clean clean.
I use brake cleaner, alcohol, BW Casey cleaner, whatever it takes. I use a somewhat diluted solution as too much can cause a 'bloom' that can be hard to control. I use a Q-tip and keep it moving to control the bloom. I use hot water at the bath room sink to rinse and re-apply. I shoot one very thin coat of clear acrylic. I think some guys dip, I don't and I blue some of my reel seat parts. Use the search function 'cause there is some really good/better advise.

Edit: I just read DonT's advise. Follow it. I have found buffing with a red rouge to get a really bright finsh helps to darken.

Jay Edwards

[TSPEYFLY]

Hey all
I have to go with Jim R on this one. I'd tried all the different chemicals that others have mentioned, from Ortho-Blue- to Brass Black and always had a time getting even color on the ferrule and between ferrules. I'm not a maker so, I only ran across a few different rods I was restoring that needed to be reblued, and would stick with it until I was satisfied with the work. About five years ago I came across a product called the "Alchemist" Nickle/Silver bluing solution and decided to give it a try. I also, purchased bottle of machinist dye from Ron with the solution, as he offered several to help in matching original color bluing. The maker became sick and stopped selling the product, and I hadn't thought about it until the reply from Jim R. above.
I've sent an email to the manufacturer to see if he is selling his product as I've not found anything that comes close in terms of application, even color and durability. I do over varnish the ferrules when I dip the rod, ala, Heddon and other makers.
Here are photos of application from initial dip to completion.
1. Clean as described above.
2. Two dips in the bluing solution, dried, rinsed, lightly buffed between dips. You can stop at this point and you have a medium light bluing.
3. Dye on the ferrule, worked in with a medium stiff brush, dry it over a heat gun at the lowest setting, let cool and buff... Then repeat. Entire process took about ten minutes. As it's a solution specifically for Nickle-Silver, it won't flake off or become discolored while handling.
I'll let folks know if the product is available at this time, as ,for me, I've not found anything as efficient, or, effective for bluing Nickle-Silver.
Thomas

[tyghguy]

Thomas That looks great. More of a flat finish which is what I prefer. I hope he still has some for sale ! Thanks Jerry

[troutnut]

Thanks Thomas for the info and please do let us know if you found a source.
Fred

[TSPEYFLY]

Hey all
I shot off an email to Ron, (the gentleman whose product it is) and it went through, yet, haven't received a reply, as of yet.
I'll keep folks apprised.
Thomas

[kermit]

I have used several types of bluing formulas for ferrules, stripping guides, reel seats, butt caps, cork checks, winding checks or any Nickel Silver hardware. Some ferrules are machined whole, some are soldered tubes, some just have the welt soldered on. Whatever the case, on soldered ferrules, butt caps or stripping guide gages, sometimes the solder used will not take the primary bluing and needs to be touched up on the solder line to get an even bluing.

Overall, the best has been this old time bluing solution (Amazon has the Toner)

1 Part Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner
1 Part House Clorox Bleach
1 Part Distilled Water

Brass black on the solder line