Cleaning a fly line

[flyslinger]

I wrote to Scientific Anglers a few years back about this, and here is the reply that I got back:

"Dirk,

Thanks for getting in touch with us. Warm soapy water is the best way to clean the lines, however we would not recommend using Armorall on any line and it can actually dry out the polymers in the line. Instead try our cleaning kit here: http://www.scientificanglers.com/produc ... -dressing/

Thanks,
Erick

Erick Johnson | Customer Service / Pro Guide Desk
Scientific Anglers "

The above letter is good enough for me. I have used 303 Protectant on lines that I have been using for upwards of a quarter of a century. Orvis used to use 303, don't know if they still do.

[GerardH]

The above letter is good enough for me. I have used 303 Protectant on lines that I have been using for upwards of a quarter of a century. Orvis used to use 303, don't know if they still do.

I ordered a bunch of 303 packets from Orvis when I purchased my first Battenkill reel from them loaded with Orvis line about 30 years ago -- I used that religiously after cleaning the line a couple times a year. It's the only line that I've ever owned that experienced severe cracking of the PVC coating after only a couple of seasons. Whether it was the 303 or just bad line, I'm not sure...but I have a lifetime supply of 303 packets that I have yet to re-purpose.

[Brooks]

When your line is real dirty, this in a damp washcloth, pull the line thru it folded over, then rinse line clean. Natural scrubbers such as limestone dust and baking soda.

[Bill Terry]

For years, all I have done is moisten one corner of a cotton handkerchief, fold it over the line, and draw the length of line through it that has gotten into the water. Then I do it again with a dry corner of the handkerchief to dry it off. Unless the water is very clean, I find streaks of grunge where the line was drawn through the wet corner.

Once in a while, if I think of it, I'll draw the line through a Glide applicator, but I usually don't.

In the past, I would find that lines would develop cracking after a few seasons of regular use, but I haven't seen that for quite a few years now. I guess the coating materials have been improved.

I also use the wet corner of the hanky to clean my rods after each use. I feed the point of the corner through the guides to remove any residue that might lead to scoring of the guides. Then I dry the rod with the dry part of the hanky, put the rod back in the bag, and let it dry completely overnight before putting it back into the rod tube.

[BlueWingOlive]

Flyslinger...I've worked in the automotive aftermarket for 40 years...I think you got good advice from Scientific Anglers on Armor All. I haven't used it for 39 years and I don't recommend it for flylines or tires.

[flyslinger]

GerardH wrote:

"I ordered a bunch of 303 packets from Orvis when I purchased my first Battenkill reel from them loaded with Orvis line about 30 years ago -- I used that religiously after cleaning the line a couple times a year. It's the only line that I've ever owned that experienced severe cracking of the PVC coating after only a couple of seasons. Whether it was the 303 or just bad line, I'm not sure...but I have a lifetime supply of 303 packets that I have yet to re-purpose."




Well Gerard, the only fly line I have that has suffered severe cracking was an Orvis line that I used Armorall on. It was horrible, and I mean really cracked to pieces. After that experience, I switched to 303 Protectant. I have numerous lines which have survived the 303 treatment for upwards of a couple of decades and are still perfect. Maybe the real base problem is just an occasional bad Orvis line that will crack terribly? Anecdotal evidence can be a real bugger. As for me, I'm sticking with 303.

PM me and I'll gladly take those 303 Protectant
packets off your hands.

[tiptop]

"In the past, I would find that lines would develop cracking after a few seasons of regular use, but I haven't seen that for quite a few years now. I guess the coating materials have been improved."

I don't know about other Rio lines but I've found that Rio Gold lines develop cracking in the first several feet of the front end after a couple years. It doesn't seem to affect the performance of the line until it gets severe. But I've never experienced this on a SA line and I have some that are 20 years old. I've found that the SA Frequency Boost has a taper similar to the Rio Gold and the cost is considerably less.

[ibookje]

Rio use some coating that is much softer (and thicker) than SA made lines