Hollow build n glue curious

[GetnThere]

Although I'm still in the process of building my own bb building equipment and haven't building a rod from scratch my question is:
When you make a hollow rod doesn't the glue just fill the cavity?
Or is there some way or process that stops this from happening?

Just wondering thanks

[DonT]

I personally use epoxy but it would be the same for any of the adhesives. When you brush on the glue with a toothbrush or other similar tool, the layer is thin enough that this is not an issue. The glue will coat the inside of the tube but will not begin to fill it up. I always make my butt sections longer than necessary because I am using a Morgan Hand Mill and maybe 3/4” gets cut off eventually so it’s easy to inspect the inside. I’ve never seen any real accumulation.

Best,
Don

[trland]

I agree with Don. We use Titebond III and no build up in the cut-off end of the butt. We do pull a little excess glue out of the cavity in the butt section by running a thin tapered strip the length of the hollow a few times but admittedly it doesn’t do much. The tip sections have no hole at the end since we don’t hollow through the ferrule area.
Mike

[kermit]

I hollow flute using the Morgan Handmill. I have a long stainless steel hinge pin taken from an aicraft elevator trim tab that I wick out any glue residue. Like cleaning a rifle bore.

[Tim Anderson]

I also hollow flute with a Morgan Hand Mill. Due to using necked-down hollowing as pilot holes for my weird ferrules, I can look down the hollows of my blanks after glue-up. The hollowing is not filled in. The hollowing is coated with glue.

I glue my blanks with epoxy brushed on thoroughly but as thinly as possible. Any glue squeezed out does nothing for holding the blank together!

Tim

[Lee Koch]

I do "scallop and dam" hollowing and use Unibond. I brush my glue onto the 6 taped-together strips and roll them up as if I am going to the binder. Then I open them back up, laying flat, and use my gloved finger and/or a toothbrush to remove excess glue that had squeezed into the cavities. Roll again and open up again, remove any last spots of pooled glue, then roll them up and go to the binder. I wouldn't necessarily want to try this with a glue that has a very short set-time.

[Canewrap]

Hey Lee, good to see you posting. Are you going to be at SRG this year?

-Bill W.

[Lee Koch]

Hey Lee, good to see you posting. Are you going to be at SRG this year?

-Bill W.

Hi Bill! Not this year. It's been 3 years I think since I went. I miss sharing one of the nearby houses with a great group of guys, but can't happen this year.

[GetnThere]

Thanks for all the replies. I just bought my solid 3/4 inch metal 10 foot bar the other day for my MHM I'm diying. My failed scrafing jig n beltsander set me back. Going nodeless. I will make a grinding wheel this time as I just picked up a motor. My table saw won't give me enough blade surface for sanding scrafs. Slowly getnthere.

[oddsnrods]

For my part, I have scallop hollowed a few rods and also use Unbind glue. The 'trick' for me is not to use too much glue, so hardly any is there to squeeze out at all- or in..

I moved away from using a binder some years ago and prefer to hand bind, first with thin and stetchy nylon thread which pulls the strips together, then after close inspection closing the deal with thicker cotton thread.

I find there is very little to sand off the outside with the corners (usually) tight.. Importantly for me there is no twisting of the blank which could occur when glue required squeezing out to close it up using a binder.

After almost 30 rods none have delaminated, yet..

Malcolm

[GetnThere]

Oddsnrods- thanks for the info on not using a binder, one less thing to build. I delaminated a tip used tb3 it worked ok definitely needed more open time. I hand binder it, straightening was a Pita. But like everything you do the first time you learn from experience. Less glue sounds good but not enough glue after all that work feels risky.
Thanks for the info.

[Don Andersen]

Here is a picture of a off cut from the butt. Thin layer of glue.



regards,

Don

[GetnThere]

Thanks for the pic Don. I like the way the glue coats the chamber and that it's not a big blob of glue. Guessing that helps stiffen the rod too.