Dip Tube Motors

[Dave Dozer]

After working flawlessly for 17 years, the motor on my dip tube setup bit the dust last month. I have been using a motor that I confiscated from an old Farberware barbeque rotisserie. It's worked great and is geared down to a low speed that is perfect for a dipping setup...it withdrawls at about 2 1/2 inches/minute. After a little WEB searching, I came across a site (www.farberwaremotorsrepair.com) that rebuilds old Farberware motors as well as sells new ones. The owner, Mike, sent me a new Model #435 for my dipping setup for $42, and I'm back up and running. I know there might be cheaper motors available but I was happy to pay the price for a new motor that will hopefully give me another 17 years of dependable service.

Dave Dozer

[3creeks]

Looks good Dave, and the price is more than right in my opinion. Is everything in that unit capable of reversing and is the on/off switch part of it? I bought a heavy duty rotisserie motor and it needed additional switches and wiring to the point where I had to figure out a lot of things that I wasn't adept at before I got it working. Granted, it can probably pull a VW Bug out of a swamp, but it's more than I needed. This deal looks simpler.

[Dave Dozer]

There is no switch on the motor...just a plug. So, I just plug it into a power strip and use the on/off switch on the power strip. Also, it's not capable or going in reverse.

Dave

[Aristotle]

Very nice, Dave.

I use a small gear motor, attached to a power adapter that has an adjustable motor speed controller. I can control the specific extraction speed. Regrettably, it does not go in reverse. As such, I start the dip by hand with some slack in the string. I then allow the motor to take over when the slack in the string is taken up.

[Teborods]

Ace hardware sells a switch you can splice in to the power cord cord $6. And it has reverse on it also .Tebo

[eastprong]

Dave:

What's the RPM on the spindle?

--Rich

[Dave Dozer]

Rich,

My motor turns at about 1.3 RPM.

Dave

[Silverton1]

My dipping tube motor set up uses a small DC motor controlled by a model train transformer. This allows me to precisely vary the withdrawal speed, reverse the direction, and stop at any point in the process. The most significant challenge when assembling the system was selecting a suitable DC motor since the majority run at a relatively high RPM. I solved the problem by fashioning a small toothed belt and wheel drive system that reduced the motor's nominal rotational speed and also increased the torque. Basically, a smaller drive wheel attached to the DC motor shaft driving the belt which in turn drives a larger wheel attach to a cylinder that functions as the arbor for the string. Most of the drive system parts were purchased from on-line hobby sources that were originally intended for electric RC model cars. It was an interesting and fun science project (one of the many aspects that I enjoy about rod making).

[LeeO]

Couldn’t you get a microwave rotisserie motor and slow it down with a rheostat? People throw microwaves out all the time. I rarely let an easy microwave pick go by without getting the motor out of it

[BGreer]

A good, cheap setup for a dip tube extractor is to get a DC motor....about 10RPM. And buy a cheap PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) motor controller for the appropriate voltage of your motor. Use a DPDT (doube pole - double throw) toggle switch to reverse the polarity going to the motor. This will give you up/down capability as well as being able to slow the motor down to a crawl or speed it up to the motor's rated speed.

I made a setup like that a few years ago for about $25.....would cost a few more dollars today.

Couldn’t you get a microwave rotisserie motor and slow it down with a rheostat? People through microwaves out all the time. I rarely let an easy microwave pick go by without getting the motor out of it

I dont think that would work too well. Microwave motors are generally synchronous AC motors and are responsive to frequency. Adding resistance (rheostat) will raise the current in the circuit while at the same time dropping the voltage. i don't think the results would be as good as you would want.

Brian

[SpringCreek]

My dipping tube motor set up uses a small DC motor controlled by a model train transformer. This allows me to precisely vary the withdrawal speed, reverse the direction, and stop at any point in the process. The most significant challenge when assembling the system was selecting a suitable DC motor since the majority run at a relatively high RPM. I solved the problem by fashioning a small toothed belt and wheel drive system that reduced the motor's nominal rotational speed and also increased the torque. Basically, a smaller drive wheel attached to the DC motor shaft driving the belt which in turn drives a larger wheel attach to a cylinder that functions as the arbor for the string. Most of the drive system parts were purchased from on-line hobby sources that were originally intended for electric RC model cars. It was an interesting and fun science project (one of the many aspects that I enjoy about rod making).

I've used the model train transformer for my setup for the past 15 years or so. Super easy to set up and everything you need is built into the train controller already. Amazon is a great source for the DC motors. It's not hard to find a low rpm motor.

jim

[LeeO]

A good, cheap setup for a dip tube extractor is to get a DC motor....about 10RPM. And buy a cheap PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) motor controller for the appropriate voltage of your motor. Use a DPDT (doube pole - double throw) toggle switch to reverse the polarity going to the motor. This will give you up/down capability as well as being able to slow the motor down to a crawl or speed it up to the motor's rated speed.

I made a setup like that a few years ago for about $25.....would cost a few more dollars today.

Couldn’t you get a microwave rotisserie motor and slow it down with a rheostat? People through microwaves out all the time. I rarely let an easy microwave pick go by without getting the motor out of it

I dont think that would work too well. Microwave motors are generally synchronous AC motors and are responsive to frequency. Adding resistance (rheostat) will raise the current in the circuit while at the same time dropping the voltage. i don't think the results would be as good as you would want.

Brian

And that is why I shouldn’t mess with electricity. I’ve given up on varnishing outside of guide wraps. All GG finish from here out

[3creeks]

This is the motor that I got. It's reversible, and has a variable speed controller. I had to wire it myself but the instructions and a video from them on Youtube proved sufficient. While costly I became confused after reading some people were using stepper motors and other complicated sounding (to me) setups. This seemed straight forward enough and I can slow it down under the rated 5 rpm. It's heavy duty and should last beyond my lifespan.
https://makermotor.com/pn00113-var-vari ... eversible/

[Titelines]

I went with a geared DC motor with a PWM controller through Amazon. All the parts were about $50 with shipping. Very smooth, forward and reverse, and variable speed. I use a 1/4"-20 lead screw to take up the kevlar thread that holds the rod section.

Mark

[Aristotle]

Dave:

What's the RPM on the spindle?

--Rich

Mine is 2 RPM.

[WYoutdoors]

I bought a 1 RPM gear motor from Grainger Industrial and also picked up a power cord with switch from them at the same time. I then made a 4” long shaft 1/2” in diameter and coated it in liquid latex to grip the string with one turn around the shaft. It pulls at about 1.5” - 2” per minute and seems to work well! I then used a 10’ board and put a 3” pvc tube with a cap that has a small hole to run my string through on the top half of the board and my 1.25” tube full of varnish on the bottom half. Made a bracket for the motor and mounted it halfway down the board. I have a banister above my living room that is about 9’ to the bottom so I can just put my board against the banister and go upstairs and strap it to a spindle on the banister. When I’m done dipping I remove the varnish tube and store it inside the house and the rest of the set-up gets stored in the garage! It’s not pretty but it functions really well!