dickerson 6611
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dickerson 6611
#1hi folks ,
could anyone please tell me the guide spacing and guide sizes of a dickerson 6611 ? i can't seem to locate that anywhere on the web .
thank you , jim
could anyone please tell me the guide spacing and guide sizes of a dickerson 6611 ? i can't seem to locate that anywhere on the web .
thank you , jim
Re: dickerson 6611
#2I do not know the answer to your question, but...I have stopped worrying about getting the exact spacing of the original because every rod is different even if the taper is the same. I'd follow Tom Morgan's guidelines for guide size and spacing, and tape the guides on the blank and see how the line hangs under load like Garrison describes in "The Book". You might find that your 6611 casts better doing it that way than by staying with a posted guide spacing that happened to work for Dickerson. I never think I'm building an actual Perfectionist or a Payne 100, etc., but I'm trying to feel what the action of an original might be like and different guide spacing might just bring out the best in that rod. Just my two pennies.
Re: dickerson 6611
#3I will second 3creeks statement on this. I fixed, refinished, and restored a lot of rods before I started making them from scratch and the best thing you can do for yourself is to figure out how far from the end of the reelseat is a good place for the stripping guide, according to your fishing style (in my experience, that can be from 26 to 30 inches).
I am going to provide the following for illustration purposes only and if you follow the logic you can use it for any rod to figure it out for yourself. Use an online spacing tool, like the ones in Hexrod and input 8 guides (1 per foot and rounding 6'6" up to 7 plus the stripping guide), indexing off the stripping guide. The other thing to watch is where the ferrule will go (in this case at 39 inches) and avoid a guide landing too close or on this measurement. Putting in 27 inches as a theoretical for the stripping guide:
I am going to provide the following for illustration purposes only and if you follow the logic you can use it for any rod to figure it out for yourself. Use an online spacing tool, like the ones in Hexrod and input 8 guides (1 per foot and rounding 6'6" up to 7 plus the stripping guide), indexing off the stripping guide. The other thing to watch is where the ferrule will go (in this case at 39 inches) and avoid a guide landing too close or on this measurement. Putting in 27 inches as a theoretical for the stripping guide:
Re: dickerson 6611
#4Another thing I started doing was to use these tiny rubber bands that dentist's use to hold the guides on. They are much easier to move than untaping and re-taping the guides while testing the spacing. They also work great while wrapping guides but you have to cut them off and waste them for the most part.
Re: dickerson 6611
#5thanks guys , this all makes perfect sense . this is my first build so i'm a bit jumpy . FOMU , fear of messing up ! i will head to the shop after breakfast and play around with it . gotta get some of those rubber bands , tedious with the tape .
Re: dickerson 6611
#6Orthodontic Gap Teeth Bands 3/16 Heavy - 100 Bands per pack by AdentalZ https://a.co/d/bZIm21u
Re: dickerson 6611
#7Bands are also available from Mudhole. CRB Micro Guide Bands. Remember to put them on before ferrules and tip top otherwise you need to come up with some tool or process to get them on. They are much easier than tape (for me anyway) as they make it real easy to reposition the guide(s) and don't leave any residue. To secure a guide for testing or wrapping, they just roll up over the guide foot. They work and stretch to any size rod section from about 0.070" to 0.350".
Re: dickerson 6611
#8thanks guys . the ferrules are already on , so next time for the bands . i used wayne's program and chose the stripping guide to index from . i didn't really have a frame of reference for choosing one guide over another to use for an index . at any rate , i put them on and went out to the snowy lawn to to try . it casts a 4 wt nicely and the gaps are fairly equal with a hang test . i think i'll go with it .
while i have your attention ... what do i do with the gap between the top of cork and my blank ? should i put tape on slightly below the top of cork and fill it with epoxy ? it's a full wells cork . it's one that was gifted to me .probably not what you'd find too often on a smaller rod .
thank you
while i have your attention ... what do i do with the gap between the top of cork and my blank ? should i put tape on slightly below the top of cork and fill it with epoxy ? it's a full wells cork . it's one that was gifted to me .probably not what you'd find too often on a smaller rod .
thank you
Re: dickerson 6611
#9Jim,
If that's the only grip you have to work with, I would build up the blank with 1 inch tape with about 1/2" spaces between for the length of the cork to make sure you have a solid connection between the rod and the cork. Then epoxy the grip to the blank. Use some sort of winding check to hide the gap at the top. Make sure you're able to get the winding check over the ferrule or slide it on from the bottom before the grip. For future rods you can use cork with 1/4" holes and ream to fit.
Mike
If that's the only grip you have to work with, I would build up the blank with 1 inch tape with about 1/2" spaces between for the length of the cork to make sure you have a solid connection between the rod and the cork. Then epoxy the grip to the blank. Use some sort of winding check to hide the gap at the top. Make sure you're able to get the winding check over the ferrule or slide it on from the bottom before the grip. For future rods you can use cork with 1/4" holes and ream to fit.
Mike
Re: dickerson 6611
#10As for the gap, I usually put a winding check in front of the grip to hide any gaps, but you can do a double wrap (two layers of thread, one on top of the other) in front of the grip if the gap isn't too big (yours might be, hard to tell) and varnish a little heavy over the wrap to seal the space. I've done that in the past and it doesn't look bad if you get creative with it. I just remembered something else I've done when I forgot to get a winding check. Mix up some epoxy, like the 5-minute kind and let it sit until it gets like taffy and then smear it into and in front of the grip into a rough cone shape. Let it harden and then sand it into a smooth round cone. You can use this as a foundation for a thread wrap that you will varnish or use rodbuilding epoxy on to seal.