Asbjorn Horgard agate stripping guide
Moderator: TheMontyMan
Asbjorn Horgard agate stripping guide
#1Ok, so I own three Asbjorn Horgard rods.
The 8' has a missing agate and a crushed bezel. The other rods have all metal tending guides. The good news is that I've been grinding and polishing agate rings for a few weeks. I'm confident that I can repair the guide. Who would have thought that lapidary and silver smithing would become a part of my rod making regimen?
Anyhow, what color agate? I would assume perhaps, red? I am rather partial to the smoky bluish, white you find on some Hardy rods. I could use any color but I would like to keep it close to the original.
I decided to conduct an internet search. The first rod I looked at was located at the antique rod and reel web site. You know, the site that contains Greg Reynolds' Orvis database, along with all manner of information concerning rod manufacturers offerings.
This was the rod I found; https://antiquerodandreels.com/rodmanufacturers/257
I thought perfect, that's exactly like my rod. I scrolled through the pictures and when I found a picture of the stripping guide, 5th photo, I was a little disappointed. This guide was also broken. Coincidence? Hey wait a minute, what was the serial number of this rod? Yes, you may have guessed, it's the same rod.
So now I'm left with the same unanswered question. What color agate? Can anyone help me here?
Well, this is a little embarrassing. Right before submitting this post my first internet search yielded this; https://www.rwsummers.com/miscellaenous ... rn-horgard
Deep red it is!
Thanks, Dan
The 8' has a missing agate and a crushed bezel. The other rods have all metal tending guides. The good news is that I've been grinding and polishing agate rings for a few weeks. I'm confident that I can repair the guide. Who would have thought that lapidary and silver smithing would become a part of my rod making regimen?
Anyhow, what color agate? I would assume perhaps, red? I am rather partial to the smoky bluish, white you find on some Hardy rods. I could use any color but I would like to keep it close to the original.
I decided to conduct an internet search. The first rod I looked at was located at the antique rod and reel web site. You know, the site that contains Greg Reynolds' Orvis database, along with all manner of information concerning rod manufacturers offerings.
This was the rod I found; https://antiquerodandreels.com/rodmanufacturers/257
I thought perfect, that's exactly like my rod. I scrolled through the pictures and when I found a picture of the stripping guide, 5th photo, I was a little disappointed. This guide was also broken. Coincidence? Hey wait a minute, what was the serial number of this rod? Yes, you may have guessed, it's the same rod.
So now I'm left with the same unanswered question. What color agate? Can anyone help me here?
Well, this is a little embarrassing. Right before submitting this post my first internet search yielded this; https://www.rwsummers.com/miscellaenous ... rn-horgard
Deep red it is!
Thanks, Dan
"By the wood-shed is a brook. It goes singing on. Its joy-song does sing in my heart.”
Opal Whiteley
Opal Whiteley
Re: Asbjorn Horgard agate stripping guide
#2Dan, Are you repairing it on the rod? If you could post a few pics of your repair, that would be great.
Mike
Mike
Re: Asbjorn Horgard agate stripping guide
#3That was my thought. I'm thinking that easy solder has a low enough melting temp to do it on the rod.
It will be awhile before I complete the process. I haven't even fit a stone in a bezel yet. I've been turning 12mm beads into rings. The beads are closer to 13mm and 6mm.+ thick. It takes a while to grind them to dimension let alone polish them.
Sorry for the bad images, but you get the idea.


D
It will be awhile before I complete the process. I haven't even fit a stone in a bezel yet. I've been turning 12mm beads into rings. The beads are closer to 13mm and 6mm.+ thick. It takes a while to grind them to dimension let alone polish them.
Sorry for the bad images, but you get the idea.


D
"By the wood-shed is a brook. It goes singing on. Its joy-song does sing in my heart.”
Opal Whiteley
Opal Whiteley
Re: Asbjorn Horgard agate stripping guide
#4I finally finished making my first agate guides.
It's been quite the learning curve. The only thing I've ever soldered prior to this has been copper pipe and fittings using MAP gas.
The lapidary work was challenging to say the least. I've found it very satisfying to turn a round agate bead into a functional donut ring.

The small ring to the left will repair the broken one on the Asbjorn Horgard rod. I'm still troubleshooting soldering with an iron instead of a flame.
Wish me luck.
D
It's been quite the learning curve. The only thing I've ever soldered prior to this has been copper pipe and fittings using MAP gas.
The lapidary work was challenging to say the least. I've found it very satisfying to turn a round agate bead into a functional donut ring.

The small ring to the left will repair the broken one on the Asbjorn Horgard rod. I'm still troubleshooting soldering with an iron instead of a flame.
Wish me luck.
D
"By the wood-shed is a brook. It goes singing on. Its joy-song does sing in my heart.”
Opal Whiteley
Opal Whiteley
- OldCane
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Re: Asbjorn Horgard agate stripping guide
#5There's third way to solder using a graphite rod and a high current. Brass model railroad makers use this method. I believe it allows for a localized heat vs. broad heating.
Here's a link to a company selling one of the systems: https://micromark.com/products/resistan ... =soldering
Here's a link to a company selling one of the systems: https://micromark.com/products/resistan ... =soldering
I don't have a PhD, but I do have a DD214.
Re: Asbjorn Horgard agate stripping guide
#6OldCane, Thank you for that.
D
D
"By the wood-shed is a brook. It goes singing on. Its joy-song does sing in my heart.”
Opal Whiteley
Opal Whiteley
Re: Asbjorn Horgard agate stripping guide
#7Dan,
Nice job on your first agate guides. They look great. I haven’t cut agate rings but assemble the guides from precut and polished rings of the correct size. No time for that rabbit hole yet! I’d be interested to see your method of resizing the agate beads you get. I talked with someone else who does that as well. Hoping it’s not a gateway drug to stone cutting.
I see those cut agate slabs peeking out of your picture so I know you’ve been working on that too!
I find it easier to use a flame for soldering the frame together and to the completed ring. Are you soldering the bezel or making bezel rings on a lathe? No soldering required for the bezel if done that way.
Mike
Nice job on your first agate guides. They look great. I haven’t cut agate rings but assemble the guides from precut and polished rings of the correct size. No time for that rabbit hole yet! I’d be interested to see your method of resizing the agate beads you get. I talked with someone else who does that as well. Hoping it’s not a gateway drug to stone cutting.

I find it easier to use a flame for soldering the frame together and to the completed ring. Are you soldering the bezel or making bezel rings on a lathe? No soldering required for the bezel if done that way.
Mike
Re: Asbjorn Horgard agate stripping guide
#8Thanks Mike,
Yeah, the smaller guide was cut from a slab of carnelian. The holes in the beads that I bought were too large for the size of the smaller ring. I cut out the disk then drilled a hole in it. I had problems with the smaller diameter diamond hole cutters. The slab was originally 6.8 mm thick. I first had to slice it in half. If you buy agate slabs, 4mm thick would be a good starting point. You can clean up any chip out caused by cutting and drilling by lapping the faces. I've since bought beads with a smaller hole that I can ream to size.
I'll try to post some pictures of the setup I use on my lathe to grind beads to dimension. I actually used my WorkSharp sharpening system laid on its side to lap.
D
A few of the set ups I use for cutting and grinding agate beads. The delrin mandrel provides a friction fit. The tape controls runout. The tool in the holder is the flex shaft of my Dremel that I've had for 30 years. I run the lathe and Dremel in opposing directions at a fairly high speed. The grinding takes no time at all. The flex head water system is gravity fed. In use, I cover the lathe bed with foil and a plastic placemat to shield and divert the water spray. Some of the finishing is done by hand with the bead mounted on a Acro lap blind hole lap. I'm thinking of using dop sticks and wax instead.



Yeah, the smaller guide was cut from a slab of carnelian. The holes in the beads that I bought were too large for the size of the smaller ring. I cut out the disk then drilled a hole in it. I had problems with the smaller diameter diamond hole cutters. The slab was originally 6.8 mm thick. I first had to slice it in half. If you buy agate slabs, 4mm thick would be a good starting point. You can clean up any chip out caused by cutting and drilling by lapping the faces. I've since bought beads with a smaller hole that I can ream to size.
I'll try to post some pictures of the setup I use on my lathe to grind beads to dimension. I actually used my WorkSharp sharpening system laid on its side to lap.
D
A few of the set ups I use for cutting and grinding agate beads. The delrin mandrel provides a friction fit. The tape controls runout. The tool in the holder is the flex shaft of my Dremel that I've had for 30 years. I run the lathe and Dremel in opposing directions at a fairly high speed. The grinding takes no time at all. The flex head water system is gravity fed. In use, I cover the lathe bed with foil and a plastic placemat to shield and divert the water spray. Some of the finishing is done by hand with the bead mounted on a Acro lap blind hole lap. I'm thinking of using dop sticks and wax instead.



"By the wood-shed is a brook. It goes singing on. Its joy-song does sing in my heart.”
Opal Whiteley
Opal Whiteley
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Re: Asbjorn Horgard agate stripping guide
#9Adamsdry--
I'm not in your league of stonecutters, but am I correct that you will assemble and solder the guide while the frame is on the rod? Would it not be a little safer to cut the wraps and solder the guide while off the rod, then rewrap?
Anyway, if you need a replacement Horgard butt, contact me. Good luck however you proceed.
--Santafecino
I'm not in your league of stonecutters, but am I correct that you will assemble and solder the guide while the frame is on the rod? Would it not be a little safer to cut the wraps and solder the guide while off the rod, then rewrap?
Anyway, if you need a replacement Horgard butt, contact me. Good luck however you proceed.
--Santafecino
Re: Asbjorn Horgard agate stripping guide
#10Dan,
Thanks for the update on your cutting and grinding. Good stuff.
Mike
Thanks for the update on your cutting and grinding. Good stuff.
Mike
Re: Asbjorn Horgard agate stripping guide
#11Thanks Mike.
Santafecino,
Yes my intention is to solder a bezeled agate into the existing frame. The wraps and frame are solid and rather than trying to match the green thread, (greens always been a problem for me), I thought this approach was feasible.
I didn't want to expose the rod to an open flame so I thought that a soldering iron would work. I made a few guides and used the iron to secure the rings. What I found was the heat generated and length of time needed to obtain a good joint was to extreme to try on the rod. The frame really got hot and I'm sure that it would compromise the varnish and perhaps the cane. I don't need to scorch anything since re-wrapping is so benign.
With that being said however...
I purchased a resistance soldering system from Micro Mark, thanks OldCane. I haven't used it yet, but some of the videos I've watched shows a very quick process with heat sensitive materials in close proximity to the joint.
So I think I'm going to spend some time in the shop today making a couple guides with the new soldering tool to see how it functions. I'll post some photos of the procedure when I get a chance.
D
Santafecino,
Yes my intention is to solder a bezeled agate into the existing frame. The wraps and frame are solid and rather than trying to match the green thread, (greens always been a problem for me), I thought this approach was feasible.
I didn't want to expose the rod to an open flame so I thought that a soldering iron would work. I made a few guides and used the iron to secure the rings. What I found was the heat generated and length of time needed to obtain a good joint was to extreme to try on the rod. The frame really got hot and I'm sure that it would compromise the varnish and perhaps the cane. I don't need to scorch anything since re-wrapping is so benign.
With that being said however...
I purchased a resistance soldering system from Micro Mark, thanks OldCane. I haven't used it yet, but some of the videos I've watched shows a very quick process with heat sensitive materials in close proximity to the joint.
So I think I'm going to spend some time in the shop today making a couple guides with the new soldering tool to see how it functions. I'll post some photos of the procedure when I get a chance.
D
"By the wood-shed is a brook. It goes singing on. Its joy-song does sing in my heart.”
Opal Whiteley
Opal Whiteley
Re: Asbjorn Horgard agate stripping guide
#12I finally got around to finishing the Asbjorn Horgard agate guide replacement.
I attached the bezeled agate rings on a few guides using the resistance soldering unit prior to attempting a repair on the rod.
It didn't come out too bad.






D
I attached the bezeled agate rings on a few guides using the resistance soldering unit prior to attempting a repair on the rod.
It didn't come out too bad.






D
"By the wood-shed is a brook. It goes singing on. Its joy-song does sing in my heart.”
Opal Whiteley
Opal Whiteley