Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
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Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#1I just bought a lightly used Hand Planers Friend (HPF). I read all the posts here on the forum that I could find, referencing Hand Planers Friend, looking for insights. Still have some questions, first of many I'm sure.
Reading the manual, it stresses that the cutter arbor should not be removed or changed in the router because it messes up the alignment with the taper boards (and presumably the guides on the Little Giant Rougher, which also came with this HPF). I'm puzzled by this as I can see that the cutters are not currently well centered over the taper boards, both visually and by the unequal bevels on the sides. Now, I can't say that the way these cutters are lined up are as received from the factory, but I believe I could do a better job of aligning them by eye. I'll do it with some measurements and tools, most likely, as I have to replace the router motor. It got smashed in shipment and parts are not available to get it repaired. So, what it the issue/difficulty with aligning the cutters?
In a related vain, is it much of a deal to resurface the taper boards, which the manual states is the consequence of removing or moving the arbor/cutters in the router collet? I can see where, if I "center" the cutters, the top flat width of the one taper board that has side bevels will become narrower. How much of an issue will that be? Presumably that taper board is the tip board, what sort top flat widths are needed for tip strips? I have a Morgan Hand Mill and the tops of the tip roughing anvils can get fairly narrow, even at the butt end. (Edit: top flat width: Butt end - 0.210", tip end - 0.150". Side bevel widths: 0.170", 0.090".)
Last, I see where the manual states "they" run the router at 20,000 rpm, even though the high end on the router is about 27,000 rpm. Anyone know why the router is run at that speed?
Rick
Reading the manual, it stresses that the cutter arbor should not be removed or changed in the router because it messes up the alignment with the taper boards (and presumably the guides on the Little Giant Rougher, which also came with this HPF). I'm puzzled by this as I can see that the cutters are not currently well centered over the taper boards, both visually and by the unequal bevels on the sides. Now, I can't say that the way these cutters are lined up are as received from the factory, but I believe I could do a better job of aligning them by eye. I'll do it with some measurements and tools, most likely, as I have to replace the router motor. It got smashed in shipment and parts are not available to get it repaired. So, what it the issue/difficulty with aligning the cutters?
In a related vain, is it much of a deal to resurface the taper boards, which the manual states is the consequence of removing or moving the arbor/cutters in the router collet? I can see where, if I "center" the cutters, the top flat width of the one taper board that has side bevels will become narrower. How much of an issue will that be? Presumably that taper board is the tip board, what sort top flat widths are needed for tip strips? I have a Morgan Hand Mill and the tops of the tip roughing anvils can get fairly narrow, even at the butt end. (Edit: top flat width: Butt end - 0.210", tip end - 0.150". Side bevel widths: 0.170", 0.090".)
Last, I see where the manual states "they" run the router at 20,000 rpm, even though the high end on the router is about 27,000 rpm. Anyone know why the router is run at that speed?
Rick
Quality is like buying oats. If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.
Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#2Do you have the video that Golden Witch made called Roughing and Tapering under Power? While it doesn't answer all of your questions there are a couple of tidbits. Dave Dozier uses the HPF and maybe he can weigh in. You're a pretty capable machinist and I would trust your instincts about the cutter alignment. Maybe the previous owner messed with that.
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- Sport
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Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#3I have seen that video, but it has been a while and my context then was using the JW Beveler. I think I'd notice things differently in the context of a HPF and LGR, particularly now that I have them. I'll have to see if I can find it again. I've met Dave, have seen him on a lot of VRGs and noticed some of his posts about the HPF. He lives about 2-1/2 hrs away.
I wondered whether the previous owner messed with it. Thanks, I agree with your assessment that I should be able to figure out the alignment.
Rick
I wondered whether the previous owner messed with it. Thanks, I agree with your assessment that I should be able to figure out the alignment.
Rick
Quality is like buying oats. If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.
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Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#4Hi Rick,
Yep, I use the Bellingers Hand Planers Friend to rough all my strips...it's a great tool and very well designed and built. It's interesting that your cutter heads are a little off-set. I wouldn't worry about trying to re-align them...go for it...they should be easy to re-align. Even though you can flip the cutters and get "double life" out of them, I've actually had to replace my cutters after about 15 years of use due to them eventually wearing out.
As far as taper boards...my butt section board top flat widths measures .210" and .070" at the two ends, and my tip section board top flat widths measures.130" and .020".
I've never thought much about the router speed as I'm still using the original Porter Cable router that came with the Hand Planers Friend that I purchased directly from Bellingers.
Hey, when/if you make it over here to the Bend/Sisters area, I'm always happy for folks to stop by the shop and chat about bamboo. I'm in the workshop just about every day.
Best Regards,
Dave Dozer
Bamboo Pursuits
Sisters, Oregon 97759
541-207-8374
Yep, I use the Bellingers Hand Planers Friend to rough all my strips...it's a great tool and very well designed and built. It's interesting that your cutter heads are a little off-set. I wouldn't worry about trying to re-align them...go for it...they should be easy to re-align. Even though you can flip the cutters and get "double life" out of them, I've actually had to replace my cutters after about 15 years of use due to them eventually wearing out.
As far as taper boards...my butt section board top flat widths measures .210" and .070" at the two ends, and my tip section board top flat widths measures.130" and .020".
I've never thought much about the router speed as I'm still using the original Porter Cable router that came with the Hand Planers Friend that I purchased directly from Bellingers.
Hey, when/if you make it over here to the Bend/Sisters area, I'm always happy for folks to stop by the shop and chat about bamboo. I'm in the workshop just about every day.
Best Regards,
Dave Dozer
Bamboo Pursuits
Sisters, Oregon 97759
541-207-8374
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- Sport
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Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#5Excellent, Dave. Thanks.
I'll realign the cutters when I install the new router, but I take it, I shouldn't be concerned they aren't actually centered over the taper board. And I'd take it that yours is set at about the 20K rpm and that has worked fine for you. I'm surprised the cutters last as long as they seem to. I've used carbide router bits a good bit and notice when they get dull.
I've been talking privately with Jeff Evans. He's going to be in the Bend area in a few months for a job. We've mused about coming by to see you in Sisters.
Rick
I'll realign the cutters when I install the new router, but I take it, I shouldn't be concerned they aren't actually centered over the taper board. And I'd take it that yours is set at about the 20K rpm and that has worked fine for you. I'm surprised the cutters last as long as they seem to. I've used carbide router bits a good bit and notice when they get dull.
I've been talking privately with Jeff Evans. He's going to be in the Bend area in a few months for a job. We've mused about coming by to see you in Sisters.
Rick
Quality is like buying oats. If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.
Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#6Hi Rick,
As to the router speed, I imagine that has to do with the surface speed of the cutters. Which is directly related to the diameter of the cutters themselves.
Brian
As to the router speed, I imagine that has to do with the surface speed of the cutters. Which is directly related to the diameter of the cutters themselves.
Brian
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- Sport
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Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#7Good point. I can go with that.
BTW, the Porter Cable router that came with was damaged during shipment, beyond repair. I bought a Bosch 1617EVS and found that the fixed base was larger than the recess milled in the HPF mounting bracket. But... I just tried and confirmed that the barrels of these two routers are essentially identical and the Bosch fits and locks into the PC fixed base just fine. Good to go.
I could have used the PC non-variable speed router motor from my JW Beveler, but given it may make good sense to run it at 20K, I'm glad I have the Bosch.
Rick
Quality is like buying oats. If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.
Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#8I too have the Bellinger Hand Planers Friend (HPF) and have used it extensively for both rough beveling and rough tapering. I have used the cutter head to where it either needed to be replaced or sharpened. Contacting Bellinger, I was told their supplier and/or sharpener was not available and to replace the cutter head was cost prohibitive at the time. I also have the Quinchat Programmable Cane Mill (PCM). I purchased the positive rake cutter head for my (PCM) and put the cutter head from my PCM on the HPF as the ½” drive and length was compatible. What I have now is a cutter head that uses replacement inserts for whenever the cutters get dull.
This is kind of long winded, but it’s important for uniform strips.
Ok, I now had to adjust the HPF template to the new cutter head. I know how important it is to ensure perfect alignment with the cutter head, template and rollers. If it’s not aligned properly, it will cut more on one side than the other, not giving a good triangle. You have three ways to adjust the cutter head to the template. First, adjust the router in its locking bracket (in or out). Second, the cutter head shaft depth. Third, (if nothing else works) the back fence on the tapering bed. One or all in small increments. I use the template as a guide to adjust so that I have even contact on both sides of the beveled top edge of the template. I also use a ⅛” X 6” rod from the v-groove rollers to the apex of the cutter head to the top flat surface of the template to assure alignment. It's important to get the apex of the cutter head over the apex of the template while maintaining alignment with the two roller v-grooves, all at the same time. A few test strips will show if any fine adjustments need to be made.
Using the PCM cutter head, I had to modify the top plate of the Bellinger rough beveling attachment to clear the larger diameter of the PCM cutter head. Although the Quinchat cutter head is not cheap, this arrangement works well. If you ever need to replace the Bellinger cutter head this is the way to go, as three sided (three cutting edges) replacement inserts are readily available for it. On the rough beveling attachment, the cutter head apex needs to be aligned to the v-grooves on the rollers. If it's already adjusted for rough tapering as above, then it should be good to go. I run the router at the highest speed.
DSCN0071 by Daniel Gowe, on Flickr
DSCN0079 by Daniel Gowe, on Flickr
DSCN0075 by Daniel Gowe, on Flickr
DSCN0070 by Daniel Gowe, on Flickr
DSCN0083 by Daniel Gowe, on Flickr
DSCN0085 by Daniel Gowe, on Flickr
DSCN0088 by Daniel Gowe, on Flickr
DSCN0081 by Daniel Gowe, on Flickr
This is kind of long winded, but it’s important for uniform strips.
Ok, I now had to adjust the HPF template to the new cutter head. I know how important it is to ensure perfect alignment with the cutter head, template and rollers. If it’s not aligned properly, it will cut more on one side than the other, not giving a good triangle. You have three ways to adjust the cutter head to the template. First, adjust the router in its locking bracket (in or out). Second, the cutter head shaft depth. Third, (if nothing else works) the back fence on the tapering bed. One or all in small increments. I use the template as a guide to adjust so that I have even contact on both sides of the beveled top edge of the template. I also use a ⅛” X 6” rod from the v-groove rollers to the apex of the cutter head to the top flat surface of the template to assure alignment. It's important to get the apex of the cutter head over the apex of the template while maintaining alignment with the two roller v-grooves, all at the same time. A few test strips will show if any fine adjustments need to be made.
Using the PCM cutter head, I had to modify the top plate of the Bellinger rough beveling attachment to clear the larger diameter of the PCM cutter head. Although the Quinchat cutter head is not cheap, this arrangement works well. If you ever need to replace the Bellinger cutter head this is the way to go, as three sided (three cutting edges) replacement inserts are readily available for it. On the rough beveling attachment, the cutter head apex needs to be aligned to the v-grooves on the rollers. If it's already adjusted for rough tapering as above, then it should be good to go. I run the router at the highest speed.








Last edited by kermit on 12/07/24 10:43, edited 1 time in total.
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- Sport
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Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#9Kermit,
Thanks you so much. That is an excellent explanation of why alignment is important and a very clear way of doing it. I really like the 1/8" dia. rod.
I was already thinking of how I could come up with a cutter head with replaceable inserts. Nice to know there is something out there that works. One question I have is, given the entire bed of the rougher is cut out, how well are the strips supported under the cutters across that gap?
Rick
Thanks you so much. That is an excellent explanation of why alignment is important and a very clear way of doing it. I really like the 1/8" dia. rod.
I was already thinking of how I could come up with a cutter head with replaceable inserts. Nice to know there is something out there that works. One question I have is, given the entire bed of the rougher is cut out, how well are the strips supported under the cutters across that gap?
Rick
Quality is like buying oats. If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.
Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#10how well are the strips supported under the cutters across that gap?
For rough beveling the bamboo is thick and ridgid enough that it will not flex across the gap.
For rough beveling the bamboo is thick and ridgid enough that it will not flex across the gap.
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Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#11Rick,
What model router motor does that have in it? If it's the Porter Cable 690 I have a very lightly used router of that model # that I upgraded from and have no use for. When I'm up there in Bend working I can bring it for you to have. It's from the early 90's so it's probably got better internals than more recent tools and it has maybe 5 total hours on it.
What model router motor does that have in it? If it's the Porter Cable 690 I have a very lightly used router of that model # that I upgraded from and have no use for. When I'm up there in Bend working I can bring it for you to have. It's from the early 90's so it's probably got better internals than more recent tools and it has maybe 5 total hours on it.
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- Sport
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Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#12690EVS. Seems the variable speed is important. I have a non-EVS 690 from the JW Beveler, but I'm disinclined to use it.
Quality is like buying oats. If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.
- Dave Dozer
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Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#14Interesting. My PC 690 router is from around 1992 and I don't know if they even made it in variable speed back then. My Quinchat Multi track beveler uses a Hitachi vs router but I never mess with the speed.
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Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#15Interesting. Not sure where the 890s fit in the production scheme, but it is a 2amp, which is a little more powerful that the 690 (1-3/4amp). My 690 was damaged beyond repairs, so I bought a new Bosch 1617EVS, 2-1/4amp router. I thought I'd have to modify the Bosch fixed base to fit the HPF bracket, but turns out the barrels of the PC and B routers are nearly identical (3.496" and 3.500", respectively), so the Bosch fits nicely into the PC fixed base already mounted to the HPF bracket. To the extent that the face of the collets are in almost the same place. If I can find another 690 EVS for parts, cheap, I might be able to repair this 690, but t appears all I need to do is mount the Bosch and align the HPF cutters and I'm good to go.
This is what my 690 looks like out of the shipping crate:

And the Bosch/Porter-Cable hybrid:

This is what my 690 looks like out of the shipping crate:



And the Bosch/Porter-Cable hybrid:

Quality is like buying oats. If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.
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Re: Questions on Bellinger Hand Planers Friend Setup and Operation Speed
#16Follow-up. I wanted to use the Bosch base because it has a fine-tune depth adjustment mechanism that I felt would make it easier to align the cutter with the taper boards. However, the Bosch base is larger in diameter than the P-C, so I machined away the OD so that it fit the Bellinger mounting bracket. The mount screw hole pattern matched. Worked great, except the Bosch base is taller than the P-C (by about 1"), so the cutter does not extend out from the mount plate, no where near enough to make it usable. So, back to using the Bosch router motor in the P-C base.Rick Kruger wrote: ↑12/08/24 02:01...snip...
, so I bought a new Bosch 1617EVS, 2-1/4amp router. I thought I'd have to modify the Bosch fixed base to fit the HPF bracket, but turns out the barrels of the PC and B routers are nearly identical (3.496" and 3.500", respectively), so the Bosch fits nicely into the PC fixed base already mounted to the HPF bracket. To the extent that the face of the collets are in almost the same place. If I can find another 690 EVS for parts, cheap, I might be able to repair this 690, but t appears all I need to do is mount the Bosch and align the HPF cutters and I'm good to go.
...snip...
And the Bosch/Porter-Cable hybrid:
![]()
Rick
Quality is like buying oats. If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.