Which makers are the well know for making spliced joint rods?
Jay
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ibookje |
Spliced joint rods: what's so special? |
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What makes spliced joint rods different from regular rods besides being a rod without the NC ferrules?
Which makers are the well know for making spliced joint rods? Jay |
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Cadnorods |
#1 | |||
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Sharpes comes immediately to mind. So do the Grant 'Vibration' models. Supposed to get a better 'one piece' feel when casting.
Stuart |
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firehole |
#2 | |||
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Makers I'm aware of are Bob Clay in British Columbia and Per Brandin.
Dennis |
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cdmoore |
My experience | #3 | ||
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I cast an 8' 5wt 1pc quad side by side with an 8'3" 4wt 2pc SJ quad. Though somewhat different tapers, the overall smoothness and transfer of
power was identical and very special. SJ rods are more work to assemble than metal or FIBH rods, but less work to transport than a 1pc.
"Occasionally, I hallucinate. About fly fishing. Well, not really. I guess I just forget about everything else."
~Tom Chandler |
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16 pmd |
#4 | |||
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Two main differences are the absence of a flat or stiff spot in the rod and the absence of the weight of a ferrule that affects the action. I think the effect
of spliced joints is more pronounced in 3 pc. rods because the weight of a metal ferrule farther out toward the tip has a more pronounced effect on the action
- the amount of swing - of the rod. Per Brandin had two pairs of 8'3" 4 wts., two with spliced joints and two with ferrules. In casting them, the
differences between the ferruled and spliced rods was definitely noticeable, with the spliced rods being better.
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ibookje |
#5 | |||
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Sounds like a 'pain in the ass' to put together
But spliced joint rods are pretty useless with hollow built tapers I guess? Aren't the thin tapered tips of the joints very vulnerable to getting nicked/damaged? Jay |
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Tom Smithwick |
Spliced joints | #6 | ||
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Jay - I don't find putting a splice together to be all that bad. It takes a couple minutes, but the joints never stick, even in bad weather, are corrosion
proof in salt water, etc.
Hollow building is no problem, you just stop hollowing an inch or so from the splice, which is what you do if using ferrules. The tips are not as fine as you would make them with a glued splice. You can either leave them a bit fat, or glue a reinforcement strip to the back of the splice, as was done with the rod in the following pictures. The reinforcement sticks are a good idea when the rod is put away. This rod is hollow built, BTW. http://homepage.mac.com/tsmithwick/PhotoAlbum6.html |
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cdmoore |
Agree with Tom | #7 | ||
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The first time you tape it up, it's a little slow going, but practice brings it down to about 2 minutes or less. The hollowing ends just before the splice
begins. Splice tips are slightly shortened (~1/4") and rounded on the corners. I have found the tape can be left on the rod for days at a time and
reused. The tapes I have found useful are colored or clear Vinyl Plastic tape from 3M, hockey shinguard tape, and plain old electrical tape. My favorite is
the 3M vinyl. In addition to the stringed splice board method in Tom's pictures, you can also put together a pretty neat little clip. If I have time,
I'll post a picture. Once you start fishing, the tape goes unnoticed. I fish the splice joint with 100% confidence in the integrity of the joint.
Chris
"Occasionally, I hallucinate. About fly fishing. Well, not really. I guess I just forget about everything else."
~Tom Chandler |
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cdmoore |
Here are some pics of the two methods | #8 | ||
"Occasionally, I hallucinate. About fly fishing. Well, not really. I guess I just forget about everything else."
~Tom Chandler |
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Alaric11 |
#9 | |||
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Thanks Tom and CDMoore!! I've seen some of the big bamboo Spey Rods that are spliced. I have not even considered such rods since I am EXTREMELY
"fine/ small co-ordination" challenged (I've made a science of avoiding knots AND fly fishing). I figured the "pain in the A" factor
would be large. Well, if you see someone out there with a sloppily taped splice---its probably me.
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oakey |
#10 | |||
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Hi interesting thread
Please can you show a picture of the rod getting taped together if it's not too much trouble? Thank you |
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ibookje |
#11 | |||
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Thanks for the pics CD!
Which rod do these splices belong to? A general question: are splices useable for very light rods too? Say a #3 rod? More 'wood' means better connection? Jay |
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bbamboo |
#12 | |||
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Yes you can have any size rod made into a spliced rod. The sharps trout rods could be purchased spliced at one time. They were available it 2 or 3 sections In England spliced rods were very popular at one time Not just bamboo but also spliced rods were available in other woods like greenheart. It's the nearest thing you will get to the action of one piece. It's a very good way to joint a rod together.
There is a very good section in this book on how to make a spliced bamboo rod
How to build your own match fishing rod. By Lawton moss.
It's a very interesting book
much undervalued today
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16 pmd |
#13 | |||
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Splices are good for 3 wt. rods as well as heavier ones. In fact, the weight of a metal ferrule and its stiffening effect is probably even more pronounced on
the action of delicate rods, so getting rid of it may have an even bigger benefit. Per Brandin has said that spliced joints work better on quads because the
geometry of them makes for a bigger contact between the sections.
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retrotrout |
#14 | |||
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This is very interesting. Could one of you experienced folks explain the technique of taping two rod sections together? I can't imagine that it would be as
tight or secure a bond as a ferrule. Why didn't rod makers in the early part of the century use this method of joining segments, instead of making huge
changes in the design of metal ferrules: Kosmic, Super-Z's, etc.?
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cdmoore |
#15 | |||
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The tape is about 3/4" wide. I start on the tip section of the rod because it is thinner. If you took that to a logical extreme, imagine wrapping tape
around an ice cream cone. If you started at the wide end where the ice cream goes, you'd likely have a mess of tape by the time you got to the tip of the
cone. I have found it useful to put a little beeswax or tying wax on the facing sides of the splices. Now for the tape. I take a full turn on a diagonal around
the tip. Next, wrap the tape toward the grip so it just catches the end of the butt section splice. At this point you are still holding the sections together
with finger pressure. Keep going in this manner on a diagonal, overlapping the last wrap by about 1/4" or so. After a couple of inches (the splice is
about 4" altogether), you could (but I usually don't) let go of the tip section to finish the wraps. You want to avoid at all costs the possibility
that either section would separate before the wrap is complete. I haven't counted the total wraps around the joint, but I'm guessing it's about
15-20. Once you've wrapped it completely and both splice tips are totally covered and overwrapped about 1/2", you just make a clean cut (scissors,
knife, etc....pulling it until the tape breaks works, but isn't neat and tidy and begs for something bad to happen), and you're ready to go. To
separate, reverse the process, but you have to pay even closer attention to the tips not separating until all the tape is off. It can be difficult to be
mindful at the end of the fishing day, but no more so than watching out for closing car doors, wet labs, etc. If, after the tip section is free and clear, you
leave the tape hanging from the initial wrap, you can simply wrap the tape in a thin roll around the rod for re-use: move the car to a new spot, for use the
next day, etc.
Chris
"Occasionally, I hallucinate. About fly fishing. Well, not really. I guess I just forget about everything else."
~Tom Chandler
Last Edited By: cdmoore 11/23/2008 02:13.
Edited 1 time.
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LHW |
#16 | |||
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This is what Bob Clay told me upon aquiring one of his 13' 3/2 #8/9 Riverwatch rods:
"Taping your rod I use Duck Brand clear electrical tape. It has the right blend of stretch, strength and beauty. I like the see through look. To tape your rod: Wax mating part of ferrules. Rub smooth. This is only necessary once in a while. Put butt on floor and align mid section to mark. Hold with left hand start tape at bottom. Turn rod with left hand. Hold tape in right, pulling tight. One complete turn, spiral up, lapping tape slightly to top of splice. Do what I call a quick return to starting point, finishing with one complete wrap at starting point. Quick wrap is a wider spaced wrap. Tape should always pulled tight while making any wrap. Repeat with upper splice. Rod can be left up indefinitely, if you have a spey rod carrier on your vehicle. If not it only takes 5 minutes to do and it will always come apart." |
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bbamboo |
#17 | |||
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This is the best way. Place a tight elastic band around both sections near the splices on the rod blank. Just above the spliced sections. These two elastic bands stay on the rod all the time. Now put the rod together Align the splices together and role the elastic bands over the spliced joints JUST AT THE ENDS OF THE SPLICE You only need the elastic band to hold the splices together Until you get the tape on. Start your tape in the middle of the rod and work the tape to the butt section when you get there roll the elastic band at this end of the splice and continue to wrap the tape over the splice with your tape. Now come back up the splice with the tape to the tip section of the splice and roll this elastic band off the splice at this end. Tape to the end of the splice. Finish by taking the tape back to the middle of the splice section and cut off.
The elastic bands hold the splice together until you have it all tight with the tape. Always leave the bands on the rod ready for the next time around.
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