Why Titebond 111

0 Kudos

Author	Comment
Old Gooner	Why Titebond 111		Lead	[-]
Posts: 9 10/30/2009 16:23	Tags : None Its me again! Why do you all place so much stock in TB111? I've never seen it over here in the UK. I am thinking of using Evo Stik external wood glue which I have used for many years - I was a joiner. I have even used it on bee hives that get no other protection than a coat of preservative. The hives are in good condition and the glue has not failed. There is plenty rain here in Scotland which means the Evo Stik on the hives has had a lot of exposure to the elements. So, is there something special about TB111
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
tapermaker		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 838 10/30/2009 16:36	I think most that use it use it for its lack of toxins.it sets up fairly quickly but can be thinned slightly with a wet brush to help in this regard.once cured it wont delaminate even when put through a dishwasher cycle. cleans up well . only drawback is a slightly softer rod action.
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
Middle Branch		#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 601 10/30/2009 16:57	Regarding the softer action, how noticable is it? Also, when using it for repairing delams, do you think it will be noticable when used to repair, say a 2 foot long, 6 spline delam?
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
tapermaker		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 839 10/30/2009 17:04	I think it would work fine for a delam.with no noticable difference.
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
canerodscom		#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 2311 10/31/2009 10:13 Bamboo preacher	Middle Branch The softer action is quite noticeable. A two foot long delamination almost qualifies as re-gluing an entire section. I think you will be able to tell the difference. Just my opinion, Harry Harry Boyd maker@canerods.com My website canerods.com My blog -- canerods.blogspot.com Ozark Rod Makers School
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
fishbum		#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 311 10/31/2009 11:47	Old Gooner wrote: So, is there something special about TB111 There is nothing special about it. I think it is so popular because it is available in any hardware store or big box store that has a hardware department. As for making and repairing rod blanks there are much better glues available. Works ok for making grips from cork rings. fishbum
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
baetisrodhani	Best glue ?	#6	[url]	[-]
Posts: 74 10/31/2009 20:31	Quote: "As for making and repairing rod blanks there are much better glues available." So, which are the best glues available, according to you, notably for hollow blank construction ? Is there a general consensus on the subject ? Cheers to all !
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
thousandstar		#7	[url]	[-]
Posts: 230 10/31/2009 20:56	Glue is much like everything else in the world. Everyone has a personal favorite and theirs and only theirs is the best. All others are inferior. The best glue in the world is the one that you like and have faith in.
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
fishbum		#8	[url]	[-]
Posts: 312 10/31/2009 22:33	baetisrodhani wrote: Quote: "As for making and repairing rod blanks there are much better glues available." So, which are the best glues available, according to you, notably for hollow blank construction ? Is there a general consensus on the subject ? Cheers to all ! Resorcinol, Urac, Nyatex epoxy, and Epon epoxy are four that come to mind that are used in rod making. I use Nyatex and I make mostly hollow rods. I would have no qualms using any of the other three for the same prupose. Consensus on the subject? Is there such a thing in rod making? fishbum
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
dorenac		#9	[url]	[-]
Posts: 56 11/01/2009 09:44	I would like to add West System Epoxy to the list of adhesives to be considered. They make a couple resins and a couple hardeners, so one can combine to get the performance desired. One of the beauties of these products is the pumps that are available for measuring out the precise amounts of hardener and resins. They have special cups and stirring paddles all designed for accuracy and precision of mixing, too. There are also additives for thickening when necessary. I make nodeless rods and have made around a dozen using West System from scarf joints to ferrule attachment. I can heat straighten after glue-up. And their technical hotline is very good, including people with some familiarity about rodmaking. No financial interest here.
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
flyflkr	Hide Glue	#10	[url]	[-]
Posts: 30 11/01/2009 12:44	Reading about best glues for rod building these days always makes me wonder if anybody uses the old hide glue any more. Plenty of old rods around, still, that were glued with it. I've never known though exactly which hide glue was used. Anyone know? I thought it interesting too someone mentioned what effect on rod action the type of glue used has. It really can make a rod stiffer and alot harder to straighten. IMHO
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
baetisrodhani	Best glue: hide ?	#11	[url]	[-]
Posts: 75 11/01/2009 18:44	Thanks to all for your interesting replies. I also wondered about the hide glue question, notably from the environmental standpoint, but also considering their technological value, as pointed out by Flyflkr. Old time rod makers (and cabinetmakers...) surely had "secret" concoctions for improving the gelatin... It would be very interesting to know more, indeed... and maybe carry on something that was interrupted ? Best to you all, Giles
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
canerodscom		#12	[url]	[-]
Posts: 2313 11/01/2009 20:07 Bamboo preacher	Giles, It could well be that there is something worth reviving in hide glue. But when better glues came along all the major makers stopped using it. That could tell us something just as relevant. HB Harry Boyd maker@canerods.com My website canerods.com My blog -- canerods.blogspot.com Ozark Rod Makers School
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
flyflkr	More Hide Glue	#13	[url]	[-]
Posts: 31 11/01/2009 21:26	I do wonder why rod builders got away from hide glue. And as was mentioned it seems the modern glues are just about all that's used. I think the first well known builder I read about useing a modern glue was Garrison. I'm sure there were others around that time too or maybe even earlier. I imagine it was their strength factor and being less efected over time by moisture. Ease of use? But I think there are trade offs too compared to hide glue. Just my thoughts.
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
oldfishbrain	West System Epoxy	#14	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1410 11/02/2009 10:35	Dorenac: West System Epoxy is available locally (Lee Valley) which is a great advantage for me since I live in Canada and have to order Epon from the US. I too make nodeless rods and I use Epon for splicing and final glue-up. Question for you: Does West System Epoxy lend itself to mixing small amounts? I only have 36 pony clamps and glue 6-12 splices at a time (depending on time available). With Epon, I count drops of resin and curring agent from a squeeze container (I have checked the weights of these drops). Also what is the shelf life of West System Epoxy (I only make 3-4 rods every winter)? Would appreciate your input. Maker of light line nodeless bamboo fly rods avardanis@sympatico.ca
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
Tim Anderson		#15	[url]	[-]
Posts: 46 11/02/2009 14:27	At the risk of repeating myself (maybe not here!), I will mention my favorite epoxy glue, UHU Plus which is also called UHU Plus Endfest 300. I think I am safe in saying it is the most widely used glue in Europe for building cane rods. It is available in North America here http://pages.restorersupp...43/PictPage/1392370.html . The two small tubes that company sells will make up to 3 rods. The advantages of UHU Plus are: practically no odor, apparently infinite shelf life, easy 50-50 mixing (without the proportions being critical), and very high strength. The strength can be increased by heat setting at temperatures up to 356º F! Many builders who use UHU Plus glue up the blank and put it immediately in the oven for heat setting. The highest strength is achieved at the highest temperature with only 5 minutes in the oven. No, I do not work for UHU nor for the company that sells it! I just happen to like very much the glue my European friends have introduced me to. I never get 3 rods out of the two tubes because I keep using the darned stuff for everything and anything. Tim
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
JeffK.fiberglassflyro...		#16	[url]	[-]
Posts: 63 11/03/2009 10:44	The engineer in me has to comment on hide glue. The big problem with natural based products is the high variability - each batch is different and maintaining consistency is tough. Modern chemical processes provide a much more uniform and reliable product (as well as better performing IMHO). Modern chemistry has provided much better glues and finishes than the old timers had.. Peter Cooper, the famous 19th century industrialist and philanthropist, made his first fortune making hide glue. He was the only guy in 1830s New York that made reliable glue and took over the market. In the 1840s his messing around with gelatins for glue led him to invent Jello.
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
dorenac		#17	[url]	[-]
Posts: 57 11/03/2009 13:05	Oldfishbrain, Just found your post. West System lends itself very well to small amounts. But I also want to emphasize that the pumps are different depending on what is dispensed. They are also made such that you can't confuse them, and put the wrong pump on the can. That said , with each plunge of the pump you get the precise measured amounts of resin or hardener. I, too, have about 40 or so spring pony clamps. I mix one plunge of hardener and one plunge of resin together and apply to the scarfs with a flux brush, after blending. A plunge of each is just about perfect for this many clamps, which usually gets me six strips glued up. There is very little waste left over to throw away. I used to use Epon and while it worked fine it was a pain to measure accurately. With West all the thinking is done for you. For section glue-ups I use two plunges of each for butts and mids, and one plunge each for tips. My wife saves all our margarine tubs for me so I have mixing bowls galore. With the West System plastic mixing bowls you can just let the leftover glue get hard, torque the cup and the whole thing pops out and ready for reuse. Let me know if you want more info. As you can tell I'm very enthusiastic about it.
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
JimmyB11		#18	[url]	[-]
Posts: 133 11/03/2009 15:11	If modern PVA glues were available back in the day, woodworkers would never have used hide type glues. I don't understand the why builders keep chasing different glues and trying different things when URAC or comparable glues work so well and a low cost. Many have had luck with epoxy glue as well. Urac and recorcinol glues have stood up for 40 plus years and the rods are not coming apart. What is the fascination with other glues? Why change if it ain't broke?
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
dorenac		#19	[url]	[-]
Posts: 58 11/03/2009 20:16	JimmyB11, You might ask luthiers about not using hide glue. Perhaps for use in bamboo rod applications it is up for discussion, but many luthiers especially mandolin and violin makers might tell a different tale.
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote
thegubster		#20	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1730 11/03/2009 21:01	dorenac wrote: JimmyB11, You might ask luthiers about not using hide glue. Perhaps for use in bamboo rod applications it is up for discussion, but many luthiers especially mandolin and violin makers might tell a different tale. I've got a custom acoustic guitar order going as we speak and I do believe the luthier is using hide glue. And it's not an inexpensive instrument. Jeremy.
Interact My Recent Posts	Reply Quote

<< Previous Topic Next Topic >>

Yuku free message boards

Why Titebond 111

Why Titebond 111