I just repaired a fairly bad delam on a rod with Titebond III. I've used this in the past on small delams and just cleaned off the excess by scraping with
a thumbnail and then acetone. But this delam was all 6 splines and about 2 feet long, so there's a lot of glue on the outside of the sections and I'm
not sure if the acetone will soak into the splines and lead to problems down the road. How do you guys clean off Titebond III? Is it safe to use acetone?
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How to remove Titebond from glued up sections?
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 Middle Branch |
How to remove Titebond from glued up sections? |
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Posts: 604 11/13/2009 19:04 |
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stephen kiley |
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Posts: 369 11/13/2009 20:46 |
i would sand it off with 220 sandpaper and a hard block,you could go with 150 but it is better to go slow and not mess it up.
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tapermaker |
#2 | |||
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Posts: 849 11/13/2009 21:00 |
I use a med file.it removes only the glue without taking any of the powerfibers.stay away from the acetone.once all the glue is cleaned up then i use 220
grit paper and steelwool to get that super smooth finish before finishing is applied.
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Middle Branch |
#3 | |||
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Posts: 605 11/13/2009 21:15 |
won't the heavy sandpaper scratch the flats all to heck? Remember, this is not a new rod with the enamel still on the outside. And there's not an even
coating of glue on the flats, its just in spots and there's a lot of places with no glue on the flats.
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Middle Branch |
#4 | |||
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Posts: 606 11/13/2009 21:52 |
Well, I went at it with the 220 grit on the guide side of one flat, it takes the glue off nice but it does take some cane off too. I followed up with some
steel wool and the cane still looks the same as the parts where I didn't do any work, meaning the coloration doesn't change.
But it does take some cane off, but I'm guessing that it's such a microscopic amount that it's nothing to worry about? Meaning it's not like the taper will be changed or anything? I just wish there was a way to remove it with solvents without hurting the integrity of the glue holding the splines together, but I'm guessing whatever removes the glue on the outside is strong enough to potentially damage the glue on the inside if it seeps in there.
Last Edited By: Middle Branch 11/14/2009 00:01.
Edited 1 time.
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tapermaker |
#5 | |||
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Posts: 850 11/13/2009 22:40 |
I used paper for two yrs until i took a file to the flats I`ll never go back to doing it the other way. A med file takes none of the cane off but takes the
glue off faster than the paper. it seems to gum up the paper but just removes the glue with one or 2 passes with the bastard file.give it a try ,you wont
regret it.
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Middle Branch |
#6 | |||
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Posts: 607 11/14/2009 00:04 |
tapermaker, can you share a brand name and model of a file to try, maybe something I can pick up at Ace Hardware tomorrow? I know nothing about files and if I
go there looking for a medium bastard file there might be 20 different choices.
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tapermaker |
#7 | |||
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Posts: 851 11/14/2009 00:38 |
my choice was a nicholson 8" bastard file shown below. any brand that has the same bite will do
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aparramoure |
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Posts: 1775 11/14/2009 05:56 |
You can sometimes find them in 6" lengths.. sometimes labled like #6, etc., sometimes they are labled course, medium, and fine. Stop by, I'll show
you mine. You will want a file cleaning brush as well. Again, stop by.
Last Edited By: aparramoure 11/14/2009 06:00.
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WIHEXROD |
#9 | |||
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Posts: 236 11/14/2009 13:10 |
Next time you might want to remove as much of the glue off the flats before it hardens.
I use a scraper. Scott |
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bluejayee |
#10 | |||
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Posts: 891 11/14/2009 23:12 |
Hi Guys, Scraper then 220 grit, etc. I use a clip blade pocket knife on the tips. Jay Edwards
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- Members Corner
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