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Hello,
I have been very busy during these past few months working on my new spey reels. Here are just a few of the new finishes. I also wanted to update you on the
trout size reels. I have decided to make a 3.5" and 3.75" as well as the 3". I am working on them presently. Thank you for all your feedback
with the trout reels - the information was immensely helpful.
Sorry these pictures are very small. To get a better look you can check them out at www.speyco.net .
Thanks,
Tim
The Spey Company
Last Edited By: speyco 07/11/2008 00:24.
Edited 1 time.
Thanks, I also have been enjoying all the posts on the different reels as well. I have not commented until now - I have been working very hard this past
few months at both of my full time jobs. All the new reels posted on this site look very nice, and I really like the fact that people can see all the hard work
that goes into reel smithing. The only thing you left out is all the tedious deburring and polishing , and the countless jigs for each. (I know there is chemicial deburring, but I
think I would rather have more steelhead, than more toxic chemicials in the rivers.) These aspects are some of the hardest, getting a nice finish is, well...it
plain stinks and it takes a lot of time. But these are the things that people will notice, and makes a reel (a real work of art).
I will try and post some pictures of the trout reels being machined - I think that would be fun. I also would have to figure out how to get the pictures
larger. If anyone has insight into this, that would be much appreciated!
Your spot on with the comment about finishing. Major time/pain goes into sanding and buffing out the tooling marks. It has to be done by one to be
appreciated. A lot of hours in custom made reels........... I'm looking into a vibratory part finisher........if I can get a used cheap one.
nice. what would the capacity of the 3" be? and the 3.5" for that matter. not a spey fisherman, but admire the clean looks of your reels, and very
interested in one of the smaller reels.
The 3" will fit a 4/5 weight line with no problem, with a small amout of backing as well. It will be a little smaller than 3" - 2 7/8 to be exact,but
it will be a real cracker - very nice check to it,very different than my present sound and design. I will be posting pictures of the reel production as it is
being made, like Mr.Shamburg and other have done - that was the best thing that I have seen on a forum ever; I think 3000 of the veiws were me! VERY COOL and
very nice work indeed! I have not had much time to post with everthing going on with the reels and my other business, but this will change. I heard that they
are making an 8th day of the week, so I can work then as well.
As for the 3.5, this will be for switch spey / spey trout size or possible 8/9 single hand work (MUSKY REEL). At least, this will be my application for it..
Both of these reels will be able to fish left / right hand as well. I apologize that it has taken so long for the release of these samller reels. I would have
had to change soft jaws and all sorts of jigging in the middle of a run of spey reels. It just made more sense to make 1 run, then start on another size.
The 3 3/4 will be for spey applications; 12 foot rods and short heads, but there will be ample amount of spool space as well. This one will look like the
River Spey Reel with the curvy nose and 3 line hole array. This one will be very nice.
I am thinking I will have most of the finishes and face plate options to chose from as well. These reels will be put together as the order is placed, so they
can be customized to configure the elements (like my spey reels as well). This takes longer for me, but I like making reels that are different instead of the
same reel over and over. Keeps things interesting and fun.
I am also going to making a small run of the symmetry series in titanium with stainless steel accents. These will be very costly to put together and to
buy. Truthfully, titanium stinks to cut - it protests in every way possable. It does not polish well and it burns up tooling like its going out of style.
It honestly frustrates me in every way I can think of !!!. I think this is why I love the stuff so much. And the finished product looks ? Well, this is how
I look during the making of just a face plate. , I will be making full reels from the stuff whether it
likes it or not, dagnabbit! Look at the picture of this machine's winding plate - I must do it.
Here are some details of the salmon reel insides:
There are sealing washers on each end of the main shaft to keep the plate and cage together. So canging spools are a snap, everything stays put until you want
it to come off. No more fishing for faceplates. This also keeps the sand and grit out and away from ballbearings.
The gears, pawls and titanium bar are cut with an EDM wire machine. EDM stands for very cool machines, in my opinion, are very precise and leave a great
finish to the pieces. My guy is a master machinist and I thank him for being so cool about the work as well.
The pawl post is stainless steel. The pawls and gears are tool steel and hardened.
The spool screw is pressed into the spool so this will never get lost. With removal of the spool, all you need to do is remember "leftly loosy, righty
tighty". When the spring on the screw pops out, pull the spool straight off . Changing spools is very easy with this model. Feathering a spool is also
fun for playing fish, and no knuckle busters - the handle is safely on the other side.
Many of these same features will be in my trout size reels, and if I know me, there will probably be more finishes in the works. If there are finshes or
handles,or engraving that sounds interesting, let me know. These custom elements are what makes it fun for me and will be passed on to you at my cost (for
the upgrade).
Thanks for the question,
Tim
www.speyco.net
I have also had questions about the delivery time of my reels. I did all the machining first, so it would only be about two weeks, to receive a reel.
Here are some pictures of some of the reels I sent out this week that have elements of interest. Also, in celebration of finding the trick to the pictures -
double click does it!
Titanium winding plate / hardcoat III black frame / brass foot
hardcoat III black / aluminum hardware / rosewood handle ( farm raised wood only for this company !)
!)
Summer Spey Reel ( snake roll uprade ) / hardcoat III plate and spool. The pictures are a bit dusty and I am not very good at taking pictures.
Another fun thing of interest about this reel. It comes apart with 1 screw and the spool is exposed for palming and switching out spools with convenience
(like all my reels). A customer asked if this handle would be available on the "Single Spey" trout reel series, so I decided I would.. If there is
something you do not see but would like to, please just ask, chances are I will do it if possible. I will be also thinking about anti-reverse and muliplying
features as well in the future. These would increase the cost a bit more, but with a base starting point of my salmon reels being $425 there is some room to
make upgrades without taking out a second mortgage.
Here is a look of the reel from the spool side. The black marks are just polishing smut and were cleaned off before shipment.Truthfully, I think this cage may
have gotten another once over on the polishing wheel before it was ready to go.
This one was fun. This handle is aluminum and diamond knurled. Then hardcoated with a nylon and stainless steel thrust bearing system. Somehow I packed 7
pieces into the handle assembly alone.
A River Spey (snake rolled) with a brass foot. This one is very big and has a very loud strong checker as well. All these reels have three drag settings
from the inside. I took a "set it and forget it" philosophy. "And that's good. One less thing to worry about, in my opinion." Right
on, Forrest.
Mark did a great job with the machining of reels. I think this gives everyone an idea of the amount of work that goes into
reel smithing. The one thing he left out is the the polishing. This is what I would like to show in live video.This video stream starts after the cutting of
the brass blank, 2 milling operations and 4 tool tool changes. Then it was bolted to a steel jig and hand turned on the lathe twice; once for each foot grade
with a change in the compound of the tool post for hand feeding at degree. Then it was hand deburred with a belt sander with three different
grit sanding belts, getting out chucking marks and scratches and softening all the edges. Then hand sand-blasted.to give uniformity on the bottom. Then it is
off to the engraving company. Then, last but not least, it is off to the polishing wheel.All this work for one foot! Now starts the real work -the work that
people enjoy for the look of their reel.
I built this jig out of cherry wood.� Holding onto the metal when polishing is not possible. Metal will melt flesh when fresh of the wheel! I make my jigs to
be convenient for doing multiple pieces. This foot simply screws onto the jig, holding it in place away of my fingers. Also there is a huge mount of danger in
polishing,� not only from the cancer causing dust to contend with but this stuff �will not come off my fingers, hair or my face!� Make the jigs with nothing
that will grab the wheel and your hand at the same time. I nearly broke all the right hand fingers polishing a cage last month. This wheel grabbed the piece
and thankfully whipped the right way, away from my digits. Dumb luck - that's all that was.
Tim, can't you wear gloves to protect your fingers when polishing--that video was scary! It really makes anyone appreciate the work you're putting
into your reels. Keith
Well ,
I should wear gloves with the feet, your right. I do with the cages but I somehow feel safer with gloves off when I'm working on the feet. More
dexterity, perhaps? Maybe. I have tried it both ways and the gloves seem to just plain get in the way for me. I'm not necessarily suggesting to someone
not to wear gloves, though. Re looking at the video, it does look more dangerous than it is. As long as you use common sense and be careful.
A burn on a finger is not as bad in getting caught up in a lathe jaw or having a milling bit blow up at mock ten, sending shards of molten hot tool steel in
every direction off the mill bed. These are the things I worry about the most. Metal working is VERY dangerous. There is no question about that. It always
has been, always will be.
I also do some wood working as well and darn it if disaster is not always around the corner there, too!
The best and most economical way I've found to test the pawl system is to attach the drive post to a high speed drill.� I do this to ensure the pawl system
was up to snuff before I reproduce the system.
Tim
Those are both AWESOME videos! The testing of the pawl system with a drill is outstanding. I used my German Sheppard to test the drag on my reel. I tied a
leader to her collar and threw the tennis ball across the yard. I was worried I was going to break the 8 weight rod.
I know how you feel about polishing. I was coated in buffing compound when I was done polishing the parts for my reels. My face, hands and arms were BLACK. I
was blowing black snot for days afterwards. That greasy stuff is a nightmare to wash off!
Beautiful work, I especially like the reduced diameter rim on the winding plate side of the River Spey (snake rolled) with a brass foot. I also like the look
of the dished rim on the spool side of the cage. Can't wait for the trout models!
Are you doing any with brass winding plates? I think a brass winding plate and foot with a clear anodized aluminum cage and spool would look excellent.
Thanks Mark,
There will be many more videos to come. Now that I am getting a grip on how to work this plastic box, sort of!
The drill test is fun, I agree. I felt the unreal amount of force on a reel from steelhead / salmon had to be addressed. I did not want there to be
problems. Plus, I had to use a drill. Here is a picture of my dog. I thought about using your method, but I think the only rpms I'd get from her would
be too low since they only happen when finding next place to take a nap or if you drop a potato chip! Heck, with the rod she would blow another hip at 2
rpms!
I plan to offer the brass winding plates on all my reels. I only will use the real McCoy. So it will weigh more, but most don't care when it looks as
cool as brass does. The concaved cut on the River Spey was to keep the plate stiff and the checking system the same. It did turn out nicely however. When I
drew it up in my note book, I had a feeling that it would look cool. I could not wait until the week day to get back to work on the big lathe. It took a few
refinements before I was satisfied with the look, but it got there in the end.
I have a question for you Mark. What program did you use for the 3d spec drawing of your reel ? Is it user friendly?. I would love to see the reel before it
is turned up. By the way, very nice work on the reel, the handle looks very strong to me. Very curvy, very cool.
Thanks
Tim
Last Edited By: speyco 07/15/2008 14:54.
Edited 1 time.
I use Solid Works. It has a steep learning curve, but once you master it you can do a lot with it. The nice thing about solid works is that you can model each
individual part as a virtual solid object that can then be mated with other parts in an assembly so you can check how things fit or look for interferences
between other parts. You can also make a manufacturing print of the part and if you make any changes to the part (which is very easy to do), the drawing is
automatically updated to reflect those changes. I learned AutoCAD on my own several years ago and for mechanical work Solid Works blows it away.
I don't think I'd mind the weight of a solid brass winding plate, I've got an 8'2" 6 weight that will need a good solid reel to balance
it... hint, hint...
Speaking of free trade. I'm pretty good with Solidworks as well. Additionally, if you or shop/vendor uses Mastercam/solids, the solids from Solidworks
solids can be directly imported into Mastercam to make CNC programming a snap. I'm rather fond of your "S" handle silver and black with the
radius on the reel frame, if your considering any barters? Also, can get a killer prices on precision lasered parts............if thats of any use to you.
Tim,
Dont mean to compete , but he makes a very nice product that I intend
to acquire by some means .................................................How are your trout click/pawl reels coming? Just made a 3" click-pawl that looks pretty close to
a Bellinger.
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